On the way to Bowls, I saw 2 guys on a bicycle stealing someones e-bike.  They were laughing.  Then I get to the beach and see these 2 monk seals sleeping with the full moon.  So romanic!

I took this photo and standing next to me also taking photos was a local surfer from Rockpiles.  He went to his car to put his camera away, then we paddled out to surf.  Five minutes later his truck got stolen from the parking lot!!!  OMG!  There are thieves everywhere so please be vigilant.

Summer is here and everyone is excited!  Even the thieves!

Another one of my cameras just drowned.  Full with salt water, this one is dead.  Now I’m over 15 cameras that died on me.  When can someone invent something better?

I was craving asparagus so I chopped some up and made this healthy stir fry for dinner!  It was delicious.  Going to sleep and going to dawn patrol!

From my kitchen window.  Absolutely stunning!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

HT’s/Hollow Trees/Lances Rights are all different names, but is all the same spot.  It’s located in the Mentawai Islands and is probably one of the best right barrels in the world.  On a small day, there will be 50 guys fighting for waves.  Yes, 50 guys all paying thousands of dollars traveling half way around the world.  Sounds crazy right?  BUT when it’s big like this, it’s a different story.  You have to be an advanced surfer willing to take risks.  It’s very powerful, very shallow, and very dangerous.  Pulling into the barrel is easy, making it out over the shallow reef is the hard part.  They call the inside reef the “surgeon’s table” because if you hit it, you will need a surgeon to stitch you up.  And the nearest surgeon is in the city of Padang which is 14 hours away by boat.  This particular day was HUGE!  It was breaking way outside so you’re taking off on 20′ faces, bottom turning, and pulling into the biggest and best barrels you can ever imagine.  1000% commitment. This was one of the most memorable waves of my life.  I rode a 6’8 that  day and it didn’t survive that session.  Thank goodness it was only my board…