If it wasn’t for foiling, I’d probably wouldn’t have reconnected with Kaiborg.  So yeah, foiling brought a lot of good people back into my life.  From foiling small fun waves in town, to foiling big scary waves on the North shore,  it’s all the same.  Just us men enjoying the ocean and life to the fullest.   

The conditions were absolutely perfect!   

When this big guy is flying down the line, this is the safest place to be.   Not in front, but behind.  

Good to see Uncle Mark back enjoying the ride!  

It’s pretty cool to surf different spots depending on tides, winds, and swell direction.  40 years of experience is paying off.   To be able to score empty clean waves like this is a surfers dream.   Everybody went home happy today!

Epic day at the Cliff…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I waited at home this morning because I had a feeling later in the day would be better.  I watched the sky and felt the breeze and when it felt right, I drove down to Diamond Head.  And when I pulled up, this is what I saw.  Overhead sets just perfectly peeling from the way outside to the very inside.  OMG, this is as good as it gets!

I grabbed my shortest and thinnest board because it was all about high performance surfing today.  This was one of the best Diamond Head sessions in a while.

Good to see the locals out enjoying the ride.  It was as beautiful as it gets.

Somebody lost their tire?

I surfed a long session and caught a lot of good waves.  When I came home, I took a nap with a big smile.  I felt like a kid again…