I waited at home this morning because I had a feeling later in the day would be better.  I watched the sky and felt the breeze and when it felt right, I drove down to Diamond Head.  And when I pulled up, this is what I saw.  Overhead sets just perfectly peeling from the way outside to the very inside.  OMG, this is as good as it gets!

I grabbed my shortest and thinnest board because it was all about high performance surfing today.  This was one of the best Diamond Head sessions in a while.

Good to see the locals out enjoying the ride.  It was as beautiful as it gets.

Somebody lost their tire?

I surfed a long session and caught a lot of good waves.  When I came home, I took a nap with a big smile.  I felt like a kid again…

Check out this photo of Diamond Head taken back in 1937.  This is when they were building the Cromwell’s wall for the billionaire heiress Doris Duke.  She had this wall built so she could park her boat there.  That’s when money could buy anything.  Anyway, notice how wide the white sandy beach at Diamond Head was!  Today, it’s gone.

Back in the day, rich mans money could alter the natural landscape on all of our Hawaiian islands.  Pretty sad when you think about it.  Now they want to demolish this wall?  I think it’s too late.  Just leave it alone.

So nice to get some peaceful time off the boat and on the foil.  I call this “my time.”

I saw Acacia wearing this Japanese shirt.  I couldn’t understand it and wondered where she got it from???

But any cute girl can make any shirt cute.

I just love her training chopsticks.  Haha.  This is how the Moniz kids learn how to use the chopstick.  Haha.

Fly-by Waikiki…

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!