When I woke up this morning, I didn’t expect this!  The girls and I jumped on Mayuki to see if the secret spot we surfed yesterday had leftovers.  And it was not only leftovers, it was the best day all week!  Perfect waves, perfect conditions, and nobody out all morning.  Just us…

Had my camera and was ready to get the shots from the foil.  

It’s pretty cool how this girl got good so fast.  Her knowledge for the ocean is much better, and her surfing is much much better. 

Takami-san was ripping today.  She was doing this cool slash all morning long. 

Here’s the start of the slash.  

And the end of the slash after releasing the fins.  Lots of spray and full control.  This is the best I’ve seen her surf in years.  So stoked!

This girl got good too.  Pretty amazed on her power and style.  

These were the happiest 3 girls in the world today. 

While the girls were smiling and giggling in the back, I was already thinking about my sauna and nap.  It’s been such a wild week and now that the winds will back down, things will get back to normal.  But we don’t like normal anymore.  Haha.

The winds have been super strong recently but there is one special surf spot that loves strong winds.  We surfed there twice this week and it was really good.  You need a boat to get there so we weren’t expecting anyone else to show up.  Another epic shot from the foil.   

Surfing the other day with the dentists was fun.  They were super energetic and super stoked to surf for the first time.  

This year was the first time in a very long time I got to hang out with Matchi so much.  Matchi was one of the first surfers I met in Japan so he knows all the crazy stories about me.  Even the ones I forgot.  Haha.  

Thank you Matchi for the beautiful photos.  Hope to see you in the barrel in Shikoku!  

Ham hock is pork knuckles.  So I just at pork knuckles black eye peas soup.  Pretty dam good!

There is something about this view that makes me so at ease.  Every time I come here, I feel like I entered heaven…

Rainbows Forever…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore shoulder high from the North. Go to Laniakea.
Ala Moana waist high and strong offshore.
Diamond Head head high and strong side shore.
Trade winds at 30mph. Last day of strong winds.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!