Yesterday once more:  Darren on a set right!

Good morning 2:50am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Nobody expected today to be bigger than yesterday but it was.  Super nice waves at Bowls and perfect for Boot Camp.  Nakahodo-san on a nice one.

Compared to yesterday, Kinoshita-san was much more relaxed today and it showed as he caught twice the amount of waves, and rode them twice as long.  

And today the smile tells it all.  The happy ending to a wonderful ride.

The Energizer Bunny keeps on going, going, and going.  I don’t know where she gets all her energy from.  Non-stop surfing since she got here.

It’s cool to see two total strangers meeting for the first time and having a conversation with something in common.  Nakahodo-san and Kinoshita-san talking about Okinawa.  

I saw Nakahodo-san get the wave of his life today at Bowls.  It was a big set, he surfed it so good, and came in a happy man.  

Went right back out to surf with the coolest family.  Will post all the photos later but wanted to leave it with this.  Reina-chan and I surfed 4 years ago and she was brave back then, but what she did today surprised me.  After our first wave together, she told me she wanted to surf on her own.  And that’s what she did!

One of the cutest girls in the world with the cutest smile!  We love surfing!

Went to the beach at 5am and left at 12pm.  Sunburnt but happy.  Now going to a family birthday party!  Have a great night!

Depending on the tide, Bowls can be a totally different wave.  On the low tide, it’s fast, hollow, and shallow.  On the high tide like this, it’s slower, softer, and deeper.  Some prefer high tide and some prefer low tide.  We like them both.

Nakahodo-san didn’t want to come in.  We were out there for 3 hours and if I didn’t say let’s go in, we would probably still be out there right now.  

30 rides in 3 hours.  That’s what you call an epic session.  

This girls been studying how to do cutbacks.  And it seems like it’s working because this is a very nice one.

Everybody is getting better and that’s what I want to see.  Good job boys and girls.

The day before Lance left to Indonesia, he told me “eh, I don’t have a rash guard.  can you get me a Dove one?”  Shortly after, it was hand delivered with love.  Have a safe trip brother.