This was Day 1 Boot Camp with Seira-chan.  She arrived on the last 2 days of the big swell.  We surfed Bowls on the evening high tide and the rights were as good as it gets.

This was Day 7 Boot Camp at Bowls.  Low tide, small board, and excellent backside bottom turn.  Just in one week, Seira-chan is surfing better than ever.  I wish her the best of luck in the upcoming All Japan Championships in Miyazaki!

Can you recognize this surfer?  I sure can.  This is Tokura-san and because we’ve been surfing together for the past 32 years, I can spot him from a mile away.

The 2 tone Dove rash guard with hood is the best for these hot summer days.  It keeps me cool and protected from the blazing sun.

It’s pretty funny watching this girl that is so addicted to surfing.  She want’s the best of the best equipment, and she wants to surf like Carissa Moore.  So far, she’s on the right track because this is a Carissa Moore turn.

Beach life…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s been 8 long years since I surfed with Hashiguchi-san.  Last time we got good waves and this time too.  The rights were super clean this morning.

I rode behind on 2 waves and he rode it from start to finish.  I was cheering from behind.

OMG, it was so crowded this morning.  In all this traffic, guess who’s catching this wave?  Yes, Malcom.  Haha.

I rode my 6’5 this morning and surfing was pretty easy.  This magic board does everything for me.

Go, Go, Go Hashiguchi-san!  Great surfing today!

My daily routine includes a fruit bowl after my morning sessions.  Lychee is in season now and it’s super sweet!   Thanks to my brother for getting it naturally from the mountains.