Saturday November9日 2024年

Surfing Naturally

It’s been 8 long years since I surfed with Hashiguchi-san.  Last time we got good waves and this time too.  The rights were super clean this morning.

I rode behind on 2 waves and he rode it from start to finish.  I was cheering from behind.

OMG, it was so crowded this morning.  In all this traffic, guess who’s catching this wave?  Yes, Malcom.  Haha.

I rode my 6’5 this morning and surfing was pretty easy.  This magic board does everything for me.

Go, Go, Go Hashiguchi-san!  Great surfing today!

My daily routine includes a fruit bowl after my morning sessions.  Lychee is in season now and it’s super sweet!   Thanks to my brother for getting it naturally from the mountains.

June 23, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Moonlight Girls Go-naminori Boot Camp…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another Dead GoPro

This months full moon is so bright!  Yesterday it was bright yellow.  

This morning, it was bright white.  I took these photos at the exact time and the moon was much higher this morning.  Why?  There were nobody on the beach yesterday but today there were 7 surfers already paddling out.  And look to the right side of this photo.  We had 2 visitors again.

This couple is a large male and a large female.  This female is the mother of the little baby she just abandoned at Kaimana Beach.  She’s already looking to make another baby.  Cool!  

As a coach, I’m pretty hard on my students.  One of the locals told me again today that I’m so mean.  I know.  I feel like the meaner I get, the better they surf.  All I look for is results and when your student is surfing really good, it’s worth it.  Seira-chan with the perfect bottom turn.

I also ride in front of my students because I want them to focus on the ride and not me.  I’ll get out of your way but you better hit the lip!  

Malcom just paddled out, his hair still dry, and caught the very next wave.  He was smiling the whole way.  Then my camera had a weird sound and just died.  

Yes, Malcom’s smile must have broke my camera.  Haha.  I’m pretty sure these GoPro’s are made cheaply in China and that’s why I’m on my 20th one.  Multiply that by $400 and that’s a lot of money I spent on that company.  Can someone else please make a better camera?  A camera that won’t break when Malcom smiles into it?  Haha.