Yesterday once more:  Deco-san’s sequence.  

Yesterday once more:  Tokura-san’s sequence.

Uncle Ray at First Light…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I really enjoying seeing Tokura-san surfing everyday.  This is probably the most we’ve ever surfed together.  Each day I can see him catching more waves and getting stronger and stronger.  It feels like we’re on our own surf trip and it’s happening right here in Hawaii.  Maybe we should do more surf trips to here in the future?  Why not right?    

This little South swell is hanging around longer than expected.  It seems like it’s not going away anytime soon too.  I went to Bowls this morning expecting knee to waist high sets and it was overhead for Deco-san.  This was the set of the day!  

It’s really easy to take photos of Malcom because I know exactly which waves he’s going on.  And when he does, his style is perfect.  A happy man riding the wave from start to finish smiling all the way.  Sometimes I can also hear him laughing all the way too.  Haha.  

If you’re a surfer and your leash gets wrapped around your front foot, it’s irritating, weird, and uncomfortable.

So when Malcom feels irritated, weird, and uncomfortable, he still smiles.  Gosh, I’d hate to be his girlfriend and get into a fight with him.  He’ll probably be laughing the whole time.  Haha.

How did the Elk patties come out?  Juicy, healthy, and delicious.  

I got this cactus plant 2 years ago and put it outside of my house.  Each day I walk by, I look at it and wonder if it’s even alive or not.  For 2 years, it looked brown and I thought it was dying.  I almost threw it away a few times.  Then today, I walk by and saw these beautiful flowers!!!  OMG, I was so happy!!!