My Magic Ferrari

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Nobody was expecting this today.  Perfect chest high waves at Bowls with perfect conditions.  And the best part is it wasn’t crowded at all.

Imagine riding a wave over this very calm ocean.  It doesn’t get better than this.

The lefts were good and so were the rights.  

Tokura-san showing us what style is all about.  When I turn 75 years old, I want to be able to do this too.  It’s every surfers dream.

I let this girl try my surfboard and she never gave it back.  And now that she learned how to do a proper off the lip on it, I’m not expecting it back anytime soon.  Haha.

Good to see “White Lightning” surfing.  I met him on the outer reefs on the North Shore tow in foil sessions.  We rode mountains together and now we’re riding small hills.  It’s all fun as long as we’re in the sea.

This morning Bowls so good! Tokura-san with the smooth and beautiful bottom turn. Classic style!

Surf. Sunburn. Sauna. Sleep.