Monday November18日 2024年

John H. Wilson School 1973

I just met a guy named Kevin who I’ve never met before. He asked me “hey, did you go to Wilson Elementary School?” I said “yes, but not really because I use to run away from school every morning after my Mom dropped me off.”  Yes, I was a 6 year old traumatized kid that hated school so after my Mom would drop me off, I would run home and hide outside in the bushes. Then my Grandpa use to always come and look for me. I have absolutely no memory of even walking into the classroom. Anyway, Kevin said he remembers me. A few days later, he sent me this class photo of our 1st grade.

Do you know which one is me?  Gosh, there were a lot of cute girls in my class.  I should have gone to school more often.  Haha.  

No wonder I was traumatized.  I get the chills looking at this.  Look at my haircut my Mom use to always give me before picture taking day.  I was called “rice bowl haircut” because of that.  I was also called “Frankenstein” because of my jaw underbite.  I was also the smallest kid in my grade so I got teased all the time.  Kids were mean back then.  I’m just grateful for surviving that dark time in my life because I remember going to sleep every night not wanting to wake up the next morning.  So looking back at myself at age 6 makes me so grateful to be alive.  And maybe that’s why I enjoy my life so much more now.  I’m living my life now as a big kid that should have enjoyed it back then.  It’s never too late…

May 20, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Dangerous job:  Surf photographer.

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana overhead sets and good.
Diamond Head 4′ and good.
Light trade winds so good conditions.
Sun is back.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

22 Year Wet May

Just a week ago, this Summer was sunny and warm as usual.

Diamond Head was looking very green for this time of year.  This was last week so after these past 4 days of heavy rain, it’s going to be a lot greener now.  

4 days of heavy rain flooding all islands.  This is very rare weather for the month of May.  In fact, the last time we had a weather event like this in May was 22 years ago!

This was Waikiki the past few days.  I was there everyday and felt really sorry for the tourists.  Well, except for Namikoshi-san and Tokukura-san because they had great surf sessions.

I passed by Diamond Head and it looked fun.  But instead of surfing today, I came home and spent 6 hours researching for my next surf trip.  Studying maps, sending out emails, and trying to put together something special.

I just looked outside my window and saw blue sky!  OGM, we all miss the blue sky.  The next 10 days will be perfect waves and weather in Hawaii!