It’s the first time I’ve driven down the coast of Taiwan so I have no idea where to go. All I do is try to drive on the roads nearest to the ocean and look for waves. Sometimes you find something, sometimes you don’t. Today I was driving on a bridge over a river and when I looked towards the ocean, I saw this perfect overhead wave with offshore conditions. I immediately did a U-turn and took a small dirt road towards the river. I got out of the car to look and I couldn’t believe what I saw! It was this perfect setup. My heart started beating, my adrenaline was high, and I could barely focus on waxing up my board. This is what surfing is all about. Exploring new places, expecting nothing, and scoring perfect waves like this. Nothing beats that feeling as a surfer…
