Trinko told me that yesterday this secret spot was absolutely perfect. So this morning I woke up at 3am and was determined to go to the North Shore secret spot. There was nobody out all morning and lots of empty waves.
A couple barrels breaking on the shallow reef that were so beautiful. By 8am, I was already driving back home with the biggest smile on my face. Sorry no photos of the waves because we like to keep secrets a secret.
Back to yesterday’s session. Tokura-san very active and riding so many good waves. I was following him on my foil watching him carve up this nice wave. This is us enjoying the world famous Diamond Head view.
Throughout the past 32 years, we’ve traveled the world and shared thousands of waves together. The journey continues right here in Hawaii.
Deco-san surfing really good too. This was one of those magical moments that only a surfer knows the feeling…