Another great day of surfing.  Paddled out to Bowls and scored some really good waves.  It was crowded but crowds don’t bother me anymore.  I’m just so grateful to be in the ocean.

After I came in, I watched it for a while.  Lance Hookano of course getting the good ones.  The sets were much bigger than this but these are the ones we all look for.  You can do 7 turns on one of these waves.

I always tell people to stay out of Lance’s way.  If you are, he will run you over, even if you’re his friend.

So good to see the older guys still surfing and ripping like this.  In the water, Lance told me to stop by his house because he has something for me.

Isaiah Moniz has been ripping Bowls these past mornings.  I’m so proud to see this him surfing so good.

This afternoon, we went to surf a spot where I first learned how to surf.  It doesn’t get any more beautiful than this.  Just Tokura-san, Deco-san, and I having the whole ocean to ourselves.

Going to and coming home from surfing, I pass by Lance’s house because it’s on my way home.  Today was my lucky day!

These were the last 2 mangos of the season on Lance’s tree so I’m honored to receive it from such a gentlemen.  So sweet!

Tokura-san@Bowls.  Dove for Life…

Good morning 3:30am.
South swell continues.
Ala Moana 3-4′ and good.
Diamond Head 3-5′ and good.
Light winds so good conditions.
Rain storm coming.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Spent last night with the family.  It was my Mom’s birthday so the whole family was there.  My Mom had 4 of us kids and here are her grandchildren.  Add in her great grandchildren and that’s a huge family tree.  Mom, Micah, Kelia, Temari, Isaiah, Joshua, Seth, and Mia.  Happy Birthday Mom!

The first south swell of the year is finally here!  Bowls was good all day long.

It was way overhead at Ala Moana and pretty perfect.  All the locals out including Isaiah, Joshua, and Seth this morning.  

There must have been over 40-50 aggressive surfers out in the morning.  Everybody trying to get their fair share.  The first swell of the year is always like this where ever you go.  

For decades, Dove Wetsuit’s motto is “Always Searching for the Perfect Wave.”  That’s what we did this afternoon.  Tokura-san taught me everything about exploring so that’s why I love to explore.  And we know the best way to do that is by boat.  FREEDOM!

And guess what?  After driving around to the other side of the island, we found the perfect wave!  Nobody out, only accessible by boat, and a surfers dream.  We’ve been on many boat trips in our lives and these are the ones you never forget.  One of the best surf sessions I’ve had in a very long time.