The water in Okinawa is very clean.  It’s so clean that you can open your eyes underwater and see clearly.  When ever I take my friends from Hawaii surfing there, I like to watch their facial expressions when a wave just explodes over the reef.  It’s pretty intimidating because we don’t have waves like this in Hawaii.  This is more like Tahiti.  

I still can’t believe how thick the waves were when we paddled out.  And I still can’t believe that Nakahodo-san was surfing out there by himself before we got out.  That’s pretty crazy.  It’s a very high risk wave with huge consequences.  I would never surf out there alone.

Carter paddled into his first wave I think he was surprised how steep the wave was.  And how shallow it was too.  Thank goodness he completed that wave.  

One mistake and you’re going to get smashed into the reef.  It happened to me 10 years ago and I still get nightmares about it.

5-73

Good morning 5:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was so good to stop by the Dove Factory in Shonan.  When I use to live in Fujisawa, I use to go here every day.  Tokura-san would take me to lunch, I would order wetsuits, and just hang out there all day.  BUT when Tokura-san got the call for the surf report, we would drop everything we’re doing and go surfing.  32 years later, I still drop everything when the waves are good and go surfing.  I’m sure he still does too.  So yes, that’s when surfing became my #1 priority in life.  And it will be forever.

Tokura-san’s also been so kind all these years to let me use what ever car he has at the time.  Without a car in Japan, you will be very limited.  This van gave us the freedom to roam.

The first 2 days of snowboarding was pretty dangerous.   It was so foggy that you could barely see a few feet in front of you.  Going to the highest peak of the mountain and just dropping into the unknown was a little freaky for me.  My brother and I were using all rental gear and wear so I had no idea what to expect.  I planned to go slow but when I saw my brother just go straight down the mountain as fast as he could, I had to follow.  I thought I wasn’t competitive anymore but I guess I was wrong.  Haha.

Coming from the ocean everyday of my life, the time in the mountains is very refreshing.  The air is clean, the snow is beautiful, and nothing beats speeding down an empty mountain with your brother by your side.  Thank you Tokura-san for always sharing your secret spots with me.