Summer fun…

Good morning 2:50am.
Ala Moana head high and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Today I felt like surfing without a crowd so I chose to go to Diamond Head.  When I pulled up, there were only 2 surfers out.  Why?  The waves were so good!  I put on my trunks, waxed my board, and ran down the mountain.

Right as I was to jump in, I remembered there was a shark attack yesterday out there.  Now I get it.  That’s why nobody wanted to surf out there.  It turned out to be the most peaceful surf sessions I had in a very long time.  Yes, there are sharks out there, and there are sharks everywhere.  Remember, sharks can swim.

I surfed 2 rounds yesterday at Ala Moana for 3 hours.  Tight lineups and crowded.  Today was different.  A very big ocean with lots of space to myself.  Today’s session felt a hundred times better.  That’s the power of Diamond Head.

Yesterday once more:  The first big south swell has arrived!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana 3-5′ and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!