Round 1:  Rocky trying a new board.  5’10 x 28L Black Jack by Vesso.  

Surfing fast and alive!  

Unexpected:  Today was bigger, cleaner, and better than yesterday.  And less surfers too.  So lucky!  

Barak on his new board.  

Smooth style and smooth surface.

Today’s waves were like Macaroni’s.  A new bigger swell overlapping the old swell.  I’ve never seen so many perfect barrels like this in a long time.  

The best summer ever continues…

Yesterday once more:  Twin peaks.

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good. New swell again!
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves were pretty fun this morning.  Chest high sets and still good.  Perfect for the longboard girls.

The last month has been a journey.  Surfed so many different spots and met so many old time local friends.  I haven’t seen Mark Yoshizawa in years.  One of the old school Big Rights boys.

There have been many sessions I surfed all alone.  Those were my favorite times by far.  To have the entire lineup to yourself is pretty rare in Hawaii.  Sometimes I feel like I’m own a solo surf trip.

And there were times I explored, and got hurt.  This day I got pounded by the waves on the rocks and still have sea urchin stuck deep in my foot.  It’s been over 3 weeks and I feel the pain in each step I take.

The early morning sessions are mandatory.  No matter where I surf, I’m paddling out before the sun comes up.  Thank you Neal for this photo from dawn patrol at the Big Bowl.

I went back on my computer searching for the next trip.  Maybe just go and explore some deep culture?  Or maybe chase a typhoon in Japan?  Still deciding and won’t know until Mother Nature calls.

Tickets are kind of expensive now.  Keeping an eye out and once I see a deal, I’m clicking “BOOK!”