My happy place…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and hot today.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Started off early morning with the girls.  So cool that they are still pushing each other to get better each day.  Becoming better surfers, and better people.  

Surprise!  OMG, it was supposed to be smaller than yesterday but it was the opposite.  Only a couple guys out scoring this epic morning session.

Malcom never misses a session like this.  

The girls practicing backside at Bowls.  Super nice lefts to practice on.

Each day getting better in the ocean, and on land.  I’m so proud of these girls.  

Malcolm smiling on his last ride of the morning.  I’m sure he was smiling all the way home too.  We both agreed that it’s days like this that make surfing a whole lot better.  

Had the girls swim in again today.  It’s very tiring and very challenging but this is what’s making them stronger.  They both have zero fat and very tone ocean muscles.  

Round 2 we went to Diamond Head and it was really good.  Look at this beautiful lineup!  Scored again!

When you do the kind of extreme free diving we do, you better have dive partners you can trust with your life.  I’ve known Kimo Gasper since he was a teenager.  We surfed contests together back in the late 1980’s.  We went to Japan for the World Contest in 1990, and since then, we’ve been friends.  Getting barreled at Big Rights to spearing fish, we’re doing what we love.  So I you asked me if I trust Kimo with my life, I’d say “100% yes.”  Thank you Nick too for taking turns watching out for each other.    

That is Oahu which is over 20 miles away so you’re basically in the middle of the ocean.  You will encounter the most wildest things you can ever imagine out here.  If you’re scared of sharks, this is the last place you want to jump in.  

One guy on the boat watching the two others.  And the two others watching each other diving down into the deep unknown.  It’s teamwork and at the end of the day, you’re better friends then you were the day before.  

Thank you Kimo for capturing this special moment.  Every fish I take from the sea is a special moment as I’m very grateful for the food it provides me and my family.

After you shoot your fish, you better bring it up as fast as possible.  If you don’t, the sharks will try to take it.  And once the sharks takes a bite out of it, there will be a frenzy in the water and your fish will disappear in seconds.  And after your fish is gone, you better hope the sharks don’t think you’re a fish too.