good evening. the waves didn’t get that big but it was really clean. jumped in at kewalo’s this morning. it was clean and barreling. came back home to relax when i got a call from todd mitsui. he and bobby were heading over to a secret spot and i couldn’t resist. surfed for another couple of hours. the waves were clean and fun. no wind for the next 4 days so epic conditions. see you in the water…

lisa anderson is my womens surfer hero. she’s like the womens tom curren. i remember a while back when i surfed a few asp contests, i would get nervous when she came out to surf. she surfed so good. better than a lot of the guy surfers. anyway, she has a book coming out called “Fearlessness”. can’t wait to read it….

japan’s next lisa anderson. another legend in the making. check out jpsa grand champion kaori-chan’s interview on go-naminori.com. CLICK HERE….

hey, the invites for the THE QUIKSILVER BIG WAVE INVITATIONAL IN MEMORY OF EDDIE AIKAU is out. it’s been a while since a japanese got invited. japanese pro wakita is in!!!! i’m so stoked for him…. and i’m pretty pissed off because they forgot to put my name on there too. come on quiksilver…. haha….
INVITEES: (first name alpha. order)
1. Andy Irons (Hawaii)
2. Brian Keaulana (Hawai)
3. Brock Little (Hawaii)
4. Bruce Irons (Hawaii)
5. Carlos Burle (Brazil) **
6. Clyde Aikau (Hawaii)
7. Darryl Virostko (California)
8. Greg Long (California)
9. Ibon Amatriain (Spain) **
10. Jamie O???Brien (Hawaii)
11. Jamie Sterling (Hawaii)
12. Keone Downing (Hawaii)
13. Jason Ribbink (South Africa) **
14. Kelly Slater (Florida)
15. Makua Rothman (Hawaii)
16. Mark Healey (Hawaii)
17. Michael Ho (Hawaii)
18. Noah Johnson (Hawaii)
19. Paul Paterson (Australia)
20. Peter Mel (California)
21. Ross Clarke-Jones (Australia)
22. Rusty Keaulana (Hawaii)
23. Shane Dorian (Hawaii)
24. Sunny Garcia (Hawaii)
25. Takayuki Wakita (Japan) **
26. Titus Kinimaka (Hawaii)
27. Tom Carroll (Australia)
28. Tony Ray (Australia)
ALTERNATES
1. Darrick Doerner (Hawaii)
2. Chava Greenlee (Hawaii) Aikau Pick
3. Kalani Chapman (Hawaii)
4. Pancho Sullivan (Hawaii)
5. Taylor Knox (California)
6. Reef McIntosh (Hawaii)
7. Tony Moniz (Hawaii)
8. Garrett McNamara (Hawaii)
9. Ross Williams (Hawaii)
10. Dave Wassel (Hawaii)
11. Ian Walsh (Hawaii)
12. Braden Dias (Hawaii)
13. Myles Padaca (Hawaii)
14. Anthony Tashnick (California)
15. Kala Alexander (Hawaii)
16. Keoni Watson (Hawaii)
17. Derek Ho (Hawaii)
18. Tom Curren (California)
19. Nathan Fletcher (California)
20. Danny Fuller (Hawaii)
21. Dustin Barca (Hawaii)
22. Koby Abberton (Australia)
23. Laurie Townend (Australia)
24. Manoa Drollet (Tahiti)
HONORARY INVITEES
Mark Foo (Hawaii)
Todd Chesser (Hawaii)
Tiger Espere (Hawaii)
Jay Moriarity (California)
LOCATION: Waimea Bay, North Shore, Oahu
OPENING CEREMONY: Thursday, November 29, 2007. 3pm
HOLDING PERIOD: Dec. 1, 2007 to Feb. 29, 2008.
To be held on one day when surf
measures at least 20 feet.
BIG WAVE RIDERS: 28 of the world’s best.
PRIZE MONEY: US$98,000 in prize money
US$55,000 for first place.

good aloha friday morning. 6:45am hawaii time. finally no wind outside. in fact, no winds for a while so expect epic surfing conditions. nothing big but medium size and perfect. high surf advisory for the south shores? yes, but town is only waist/chest high right now. hopefully should be picking up. 5 guys at rockpiles, 15 freaking guys at bowls. country looks 3′ with 2 guys out at pipe, and a couple guys at rocky point. too small for the x-cel pro so it’s off today. see you in the water…

check out this new magazine that came out in japan. it’s pretty cool. a magazine that caters to older guys like me. got some nice photos in there…..

there’s a photo gallery by art brewer. it’s called “sons of summer”. his photos are amazing. i looked at it 10 times already. it gave me some inspiration…. now i just got to take my camera gear out of my suitcase….. it’s still in there with everything else…..

if you ever go to zippy’s. take a pass by the napolean bakery and you’ll end up buying something. i don’t eat sweets but just couldn’t resist this day…. ummmm…….

and last, wanted to welcome seth moniz to TSSC SURFBOARDS. seth just made 10 years and is on his way to a great future. i’m so stoked for him. here he is with his brand new mike woo. his quiver from mike, minami, kaysen, and matchi are coming soon…. check out his interview on go-naminori by CLICKING HERE…..

good evening. finally got my computer squared away. get this, there was 1 photo out of 30,000 photos in my library that was corrupt. must be one of those ones i stole off the internet. anyway, that was the reason i couldn’t get the data on to my new computer. 1 stupid photo…. anyway, after spending 3 hours on the phone this morning talking with apple tech support, i just put my 2 computers in the car and took it down to the apple store. that was 10am. it’s now 5pm and everything is working fine….

this was me last night…. stress…. i hate computers and i was about to throw this one out of my window. seriously. by the way, this computer has a video and camera on it. so you can see me everyday now. haha. just joking….

this is me now. happy as can be. after i dropped off my computer this morning, i went to surf lighthouse. the waves were so fun. only a couple of guys out so got to catch a lot of waves. i was thinking today that if it wasn’t for surfing or diving. i would be a dick, an asshole, or what ever you want to call it. so this is the first time i’m going to thank…. surfing….. oh, and diving…. oh, and yoga…. oh, and my family and friends… thanks…

and check out carter and miwa’s dog. so dam cute…. well, until he chews up the leather sofa… haha…

and peace to the girls of okinawa…..