Early morning Bowls: The waves and sunrise are slowly rising!

Test Pilot:  Magic board, big smile, and happy life…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist and coming up slowly.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Early morning Bowls was pretty calm.  The new swell isn’t here yet but it’s coming very soon.

Our private photographer Allen was out again and sent me this sequence.

Riding a 6’4 twin fin that is super fast and easy to turn.

If you caught the right wave, you could do a few turns and be really happy.  Right board for the right day.

Half way through our session, we paddled down to another spot.  There were only 5 other surfers out but they were all locals.  Sorry, no photos here but the girls surfed this wave very well.  I was so proud of them because just a year ago, they feared this spot.

I was at the Honolulu Harbor the other day.  I saw this dinner cruise boat and had a flashback.  OMG, there was a boat named the “Windjammer” back in the 1980’s.  My friend asked me if I wanted a midnight job so when the cruise came in, the tourists got off and I got to work.  My job was to vacuum and shampoo the carpets all night until the morning hours.  I remember it being really dirty and stinky.  And I also remember taking long breaks fishing right off that pier.  So yes, I use to get paid $5/hour and got to take home fresh fish I caught.  Not a bad job for a teenager.  Haha.