A foamy day!

Good morning 2:45am.
North shore shoulder to head high and good.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and clean.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was back in the late 1980’s when I got a phone call from world renown photographer John Callahan.  He said “hey, my name is Callahan and surfer magazine wants me to get a shot of you for their magazine.”  I thought it was a prank call and almost hung up the phone.  Come to find out, he was serious.  My first photo shoot?  OMG, I was so nervous.  I told him “ok, let’s go get the shot out at Big Rights because I felt comfortable out there.”  I made sure my Ben Aipa custom shaped stinger model was cleaned up.  Gavin Hasegawa did the airbrush.  I made sure all my sponsors stickers were visible.  He was swimming in the inside with his fisheye lens so I had to get close to him.  I take off, fly down the line and right before I get to him, I do a simple turn.  Click and here it is.

Want to thank Tony Moniz and Craig Sako for sending me this post because I would have never been able to see it.  And want to thank my sponsors back then who supported me as an amateur surfer.

Town and Country Surfboards
Mango clothing
Freestyle Hawaii
Victory Wetsuits
Oakley sunglasses

I also want to thank my coach Ben Aipa for always believing in me.  And also want to thank John Callahan who we’ve become friends since that session and traveled the world together.

Testing out the 8’6 Chuck Andrews Waimea Bay gun!

Good morning 3:10am.
North shore dropping to 3-5′ today.
Ala Moana waist high.
Light winds so perfect conditions everywhere.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!