Thank you Neal for sending me this photo.  It’s pretty funny because I kind of posed for this.  Haha.  I’ve been shooting with Neal since the early 1990’s at Backdoor so we know how to connect.  I basically just surf and Neal will swim his way around me and get the shot.  30 years ago, I would make the weirdest faces so most of my photos will get thrown away.  But working with photographers all these years and also being a photographer myself, I understand that posture and facial expression is really important.  It basically can make or break the moment.  So yes, here is my “cheese” moment without looking into the lens.  When I passed Neal on this turn, I knew 100% he got the shot.  But if Neal wasn’t there, I would have had the worst face for sure.  Haha.

Local style…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and coming down.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Super happy to have my classmate back in Hawaii.  Rio san’s been practicing in Japan and her level is way higher than last year.  Look at this smooth ride!

As you can see, the waves were really good this morning.  Lots of waves and lots of people.  But coming from Japan, this is very uncrowded.  And also epic waves!

This girl is putting in the time on the 7’6 because when the waves get giant again, she wants to feel comfortable on this board.  That’s one less thing to worry about.  

These are the moments every surfer dreams about.  A perfect wave at sunrise.

Hang on Rio san!  Great surfing today!

For the past 11 years, I’ve been scrubbing the bottom of Mayuki every month.  Making sure it’s clean and making sure there are no barnacles forming.  Some people think this is a dirty job but this is very therapeutic for me.  It’s a good exercise, I’m relaxed, my breath holds are getting longer, and most importantly, I’m taking care of my beautiful baby.  

Try to scrub underwater a in an upside down position.  You’re either going to get a good head rush, or you’re going to get major seasick.  I get a natural high!  Haha.

Great shots Mighty Mouse!