Thursday November28日 2024年

Typhoon 15 on the way!!!


gosh, everybody tells me i’m lucky. the whole time we were in the philippines, there was no waves in japan. and in the philippines when there are no typhoons, the waves are supposed to be flat. well, it was anything but flat. and now i’m back in japan and look what’s coming. typhoon 15….. i still got to take my boards out of my bag but i’m ready to go. hopefully more barrels to come… and for all of you who i’m supposed to meet this week, sorry. waves coming. i know you understand that my life revolves around the surf and if you don’t, your not my friend. haha… just joking. but i got to surf as much as i can now so when i get old and am sitting down on the deck of my big house overlooking the ocean somewhere in paradise, i can look back with no regrets and can say “been there, done that”….. until then, i’m going surfing…. see ya….

A Turning Point….

good morning…. gosh, it was a great night sleep for me. i love this cool weather. no need wake up sweating or with mosquito bites. or a beeping watch….
wanted to thank matsuo, akko, kenji, chiaki, naoka, mae, megu, and ren-chan for celebrating my 28th birthday last night. haha.. akko and naoka made the best cake i’ve ever eaten…. thanks so much.. well, i guess you can say this is a turning point in my life and i’m looking forward to it. i remember my mom always telling me that things only get better as you get older. now i know what she meant…. i love my life and everybody that’s in it. so just wanted to say thanks to everybody that puts up with my shit. more shit to come…. and thanks to all the emails too. you guys are the best…. kotoshi mou yoroshiku onegaishimasu….

here’s an oink oink from the philippines. gosh, this pig’s eyes were still alive. it was kind of creepy…. but i wouldn’t mind eating his ears….

Konban wa….

hello everybody, i just got back to japan right now. gosh, it’s so cool here yeah? stoked. heard there’s another typhoon on the way. what perfect timing again. i hope it takes time for the waves to come up because i ain’t ready to go surfing yet. need a few days to reset. the food poisoning is still with me and my body feels weak. but not weak enough to keep me out of the barrel. haha… well, wanted to say thanks to everybody who made my philippines trip a memorable one. tokura-san, hayato, shinpei, kazuya, u-ske, masao, and everybody in the philippines… and thanks to surfing world and marine jack too. took over a thousand photos and hope to share them soon. and sorry for the late emails. give me some time to get to you. my inbox is full. it will take days but i’ll try. going to tokyo tomorrow. yeah!! never been there in a while. maybe hit a bar in roppongi by myself. haha. just joking…. anyway, be back tomorrow. i got to get some much needed sleep without 2 guys snooring out loud and a freaking irritating watch beeping all night…[:Zzz:]