good evening. surfed out!!! yeah, surfed 2x today and i’m completely burnt out. too much surf and too much sun. i’m tired and sunburned so need to stay in the air condition to cool back down. 1st session, bowls. paddled out, only 12 guys. paddled in, 40 guys. yeah, it got crowded pretty fast… but had a fun session as usual. can’t complain right? 2nd session, hooked up with jun jo and surfed the park. epic session… gosh, i haven’t said this in a while but, “I LOVE MY JOB”….

after i took a shower, i seen this car drive by. shit? rob machado… what’s he doing in hawaii?

after rob parked his car, he grabbed out his twin fin and headed out to bowls. i called him but he kept on walking by….

who ever you talk to, you will hear the same thing. “this summer in hawaii is the best”. yeah, i don’t remember when the surf was this consistent. getting surfed out in town is unheard of. and get this, 3 more swells on the way. one huge one… see that boat with the guy checking the waves with the binoculars? that boat came from izu, japan a few weeks ago. the voyage took 1 full month… that’s cool. gosh, if anybody gives me a chance to sail from japan to hawaii, count me in. i’ll cook, fish, clean the toilet, and do anything. i just want to go. that would be one of my dreams….

when i drove by diamond head to check the waves, i seen this cool plumeria tree. this one had nice colors. so i pulled over, took this photo, and drove away. the owner of the house must have thought i was a burglar or something…. sorry…
**took some cool video today. post it tomorrow morning… check it out….
**and last, i’m not really sure if that was rob machado today because he didn’t look when i called him. but if it wasn’t, they sure look alike.. haha….

good morning. 7:15am thursday morning. waves up in town. not that big but seen some shoulder/head high sets with perfect conditions. light winds, clear skies, a lot of surfers on it. going to drive around and surf the best spot today. i don’t care about the crowd, i just want to surf the best wave. see you out there…

volkswagon dunebuggies are in right now. yeah, the old school guys are bringing back the vw classics…. my friend derek was hooked on vw’s since the early 80’s. and still is. after racing around the streets of honolulu for the past 25 years, things just got more dangerous. yeah, they are throwing subaru turbo engines in the paper light dunebuggy bodies. freakin lightning speed…. check out this setup….

derek sent me an email saying that he will let me drive it around town for 1 week. he even said i can even take it to the beach with me. imagine me pulling up to sandy beach, stopping at the bus stop along the one mile strip, putting it in 1st gear, taking the motor to 8000rpm, popping the clutch, and hitting 100mph in 10 seconds. then going so fast that the dune buggy flips, i fly out, and it’s over in a flash. no, better not. i’m not a good driver when going over 100mph. and plus, i don’t have $20,000 to pay derek back. haha… whoooooopppppp…….

and last, wanted to thank local motion maki-san for the omiyage. this screws into my digital camera, then i can put it on the top of a water bottle as my stand. killer idea yeah? i’m trying to find a way to mount it to my speargun. stay tuned….
**and last last, heard about INTERNATIONAL INFLATION? yeah, believe it or not, inflation is up around the world. china up 23%, america up 10% from the same time last year. and japan? highest inflation rate in japan since 1980. last night when i bought oxtail soup at zippy’s. i tripped out when they told me “$12.67 please”… what@@ it was just a few years ago when it was $8.95. i told the girl at zippy’s “wow, prices went up yeah?”. then told me “wait till july 1st. everything on the menu at zippy’s is going up”… oh my gosh. i better go diving more often….

good evening. went to check the waves this morning and decided to surf some place different. been surfing big rights and bowls the whole last swell so went straight to diamond head. had my video camera so took a short clip. can’t say where i ended up surfing because it’s kind of a secret spot. a spot where i can always run too on the most packed summer days here. and almost guarantee nobody out. just like today… surfing by yourself is good sometimes. a chance to get away from everyone and just enjoy the ocean alone. a time to let the stress out, and a time to appreciate life. ever had that feeling of sitting in the middle of the ocean where nobody is around for miles? looking at the sun, waves, fish, birds, and just nature? if you surf and haven’t tried it before, you should. just don’t ask me where to go because i won’t tell…. haha… anyway, check it out my little surf session today….
**by the way, heard some 3′ sets rolled in this evening. i’m waking up early and going surfing!!! see you out there…