good evening. the south shore was pumping today. i drove by diamond head this evening and seen a 5′ set. and the direction was super west. might have to sneak in a dawn patrol session before my flight tomorrow. oh, and wanted to thank boys mike akima and alvin for the sick right they gave me at bowls this morning. got in four turns on this overhead perfect right on my last wave. it was the best right i ever caught out there. stoked…. good night…
i hate to talk about airplane crashes before i travel but a thailand domestic airplane loaded with foreign tourists crashed today on it’s way to phuket. 88 dead. shit. that’s scary….
traveling isn’t as easy and fun as you think it is. the excess baggage bullshit at the airport, the layovers, flight delays, and time to destination. that’s the shitty part. but when you catch your first wave on your surf trip, it’s all worth it…. this was our layover at singapore airport on our way back to japan from north sumatra a few years ago. that’s me, hayato, and maoh in this photo… i once had a 5 hour stop over in mexico city airport by myself. it was pretty scary. i took a nap with my backpack on. well, i tried to take a nap. if you get robbed in another country, your done…..
this is one thing i’m looking forward to my 2 days in japan. fresh ass sashimi….
and japan has the best ramen in the world. there is even a ramen museum there. this is a secret ramen spot in japan where the charsu melts in your mouth. oh, can’t wait….
Planes, Trains, and Automobiles….
South Shore up again!!
just got home from bowls. gosh, the waves came up again. i thought it was chest high when i checked this morning but when i paddled out, there were some solid overhead sets. and a lot of them. it’s only 9am and i already got in a solid session. breakfast time, surf time, pack time, and sleep time…. see ya later….
Keep Surfing: A Benefit 4 Jeannie Chesser…..
good morning. 6:30am sunday morning. it’s my last day here in hawaii so i’m going to do as much as i can do today. so first of all, i’m going surfing at bowls. the waves look fun nad super clean. 15 guys out already but it’s ok. better than 100 guys. north shore has waves too. have a nice day and be back later…. aloha….
hey everyone, it’s party time. september 20th is the date for jeannie chesser’s benefit. it’s happening at the hard rock cafe and there will be live music and dj’s in the house. you got to be 21+ to get in so no kids. i’m bummed that i won’t be able to go because i will be in the philippines but jeannie, i’ll have a cold one for you!!!! keep on surfing and keep up the good spirits…. we will always be there for you…. and yeah, no drop in on me at bowls yeah… haha….
**i was checking out wade’s blog and seen this amazing photo. so i stole it, well, borrowed it. thanks wade….
this is kyle from redsea adventures. he just came back from new zealand and hooked up with this 500lbs blue fin tuna. no, not fishing. they speared it free diving. that’s nuts…. i wouldn’t know what to do if i seen that huge fish in the water. i’m going to dive with kyle in okinawa and indonesia next month so i better sharpen my spear and make sure my balls are in place. i’m getting a little nervous…. check out WADE TOKORO’S BLOG by clicking here…..
**and last, just found out that Aerosmith is coming to hawaii!!! shock, i’m not going to be here. i would fly to maui for sure for that one. aerosmith is one of my all time favorite rock bands. “Walk this way, Dream on”. oh my gosh, i would be jumping on my seat all night for sure. check out this clip live from osaka…. 60 year old steve taylor still rocking the world. Dream on, Dream until your Dreams come True…. how’s those lyrics? that’s how i live…. for more info, CHECK THE LINK ON HAWAII INFO….