good morning. 6am on this beautiful tuesday morning. there’s swell all around the island. see some epic chest high waves at lani’s. got 3 guys on it already. town is looking pretty dam good too. leftover head high sets with epic conditions. the winds should be coming on shore by 10am so get on it early. i’m out of here… have a nice day….

i hardly eat at mcdonalds. but when i do, it’s mostly for breakfast. check out this local plate with spam, sausage, egg, and rice. $4.68 ain’t that bad. i ate that yesterday morning on the way to surf. but after i ate this plate, i went back home to sleep….

and check out this maguro kama my friend gave me. oh my gosh, it was so good…. and to think, the people in hawaii throw this part away… mottainai…
**and last, i surfed kewalo’s yesterday around 12pm and was supposed to meet my friend carter out. i paddled out and the waves were going off. and there were only 4 other guys out. carter never showed up. after i came in, got a message on my phone. “hey kirby, i pulled up to kewalo’s and when i was getting my board ready, then these 2 guys came in and said that there was a huge shark out there so i decided not to surf. call me when you get in”. wow?? carter knows i’m not scared of sharks but gosh, i’d like to know when i’m surfing with one… haha…

good evening. gosh, i thought the waves were coming down but i was wrong. pulled up to kewalo’s at lunch and the waves were going off. had some solid 5′ sets with only a few guys out. the right’s were firing and so where the medium size lefts. it’s the biggest waves i’ve surfed in a while. and the cool thing about it is that no groms around. everybody’s in california for the nationals so no hungry rats in the inside. tomorrow? same thing, go naminori….
**how’s this. i got an email to my youtube account notifying me that somebody has subscribed to my videos. so i checked who it was. the guys name is ken tanaka who lives in japan. ken makes some pretty awesome videos. it’s a funny way to remember japanese and i’ll try to use it next time i go to japan… check out this classic japanese lesson….
**i’m looking at the waves now. it’s 6:15pm and the winds died down and the whole south shore looks epic. still got another hour of light so get you ass out there….

good morning. 6:30am monday morning. still got some waves in town. see 20 guys out at bowls waiting for something. didn’t see a set yet but it’s probably head high. looking at lani’s now and there’s some small waves out there. got a couple guys out ripping up the waist high clean surf. light winds and pretty nice everywhere. still waiting for a set to roll in at bowls. there’s hardly any white water so i think it came down a lot. oh wait, just seen a 3′ set. that’s good enough for me. it’s the start of the work week so i better go to work. see you in the water….

did you watch the contest online? i did. and what i saw was some amazing surfing. the hawaiians were on fire and nobody could stop them. 1st place went to kekoa bacalso, 2nd to dustin barca, and 3rd went to joel centeio. in fact 5 out of the 8 quarter finalists were hawaiians so i watched every heat from then on….

kekoa was like the dark horse. not too many people know who he is and not too many people know he can surf. but this kid surfed better than anybody else in the whole event. he was on fire and taking down big names on the way to the final. then he peaked in the final and won the 6 star event. big contest? oh yeah…. i hope kekoa makes the WCT next year because there will be a lot of people saying “where the heck did this kid come from?” he’s that good. congrats kekoa….

and last, these two kids could win a big contest in the future too. surf contest of dive contest. check out the abalone and tako hand picked in japan. gosh, i wish i was there… shun, bring your mask and fins when you come to hawaii because we’re going diving. i’m taking you and seth 30′ underwater and you kids will feel so comfortable down there that you can jun ken po…. see ya soon….