good morning. 5am here in shikoku. getting ready for another day of big wave surfing. i got my 7’6 in the car so no excuses today. the waves will probably come down a lot tomorrow so i’m going to surf as much as i can. have a nice day and hope your as happy as i am right now….. see ya…

this is omaezaki in shizuoka 2 days ago. we checked the waves in the morning and it looked pretty fun. but it was 4 hours to our next destination so we decided to kick off…..

it’s early in the morning but all the RWSM crew were on it already….

we stopped by to get a drink. i picked this one. it’s called fitness water and it tasted like sweat. salty and sweaty….. yuck. shame on you gatorade….

from shizuoka to shikoku, we must have passed over 30 bridges; including the longest bridge in the world….

and the sunset was awesome….

after we picked glenn minami up from the airport, we got to the TSSC clubhouse 4 hours later. tired and hungry. tomoko-san, kesuke, and his girlfriend already had dinner waiting for us. it was sooooo good….. thanks so much….

this what ???? river mouth looked when i pulled up at 5:30am. by 9am, it was a totally different story. HUGE!!!
*more photos coming….

oh my gosh!!!! that’s all i have to say about this morning. well, maybe a little more to say. i pulled up to ??? river mouth and seen somebody get a perfect 4′ barrel. i was super stoked and grabbed my board. as i was paddling out, the waves were getting bigger and bigger by the set. 5′, then 6′, then 7′, then consistent 8′ sets. there were 2 freak or “obake sets” that came in and i was in the wrong spot for the first one. i tried to paddle my hardest but the wave broke right in front of me. it was way too big to duck dive so i bailed my board and dove under. got held down for a while and had to find my way up by pulling my leash. it was a good wake up call. the waves were smoking…. got some barrels and seen this local guy get the best biggest nuttest barrel i’ve ever seen out there. it looked like 6′ inside sunset bowl. it was sick….. the best waves today were the double ups on the inside but you couldn’t wait there because the freak sets were too big. toward the end of my session, i went to the inside and waited for one. then i heard everybody on the beach whistling and i knew i was in trouble. the first one was pretty big, i barely made it. then the next one was even bigger. barely made that one too. shit, the waves were big today. i’d say the 2 freak sets were 10′ hawaiian scale. i had a 6’8 which wasn’t long enough. it’s 10:45am now and i’m grabbing my 7’6 and heading back. catch you later…..

good morning. 5am here in shikoku. got here late lastnight. i can hear the waves breaking out front. it’s pitch dark but i’m out of here. have a great surfing day….
the new aloha street magazine just came out a few days ago. can you believe that they publish 125,000 copies? and their website has 5,000,000 hits a month? that’s huge…. i had a great opportunity to work with the professional staff in hawaii this summer. i had so much fun and wanted to thank the staff at aloha street for hooking me up. doomo arigato gozaimasu….

check out where my top 10 favorite places near my house is. but just don’t go there because i don’t want it to get crowded…. just joking….

CLICK HERE TO BE PART OF THE 5,000,000 HITS……