It’s COMING NOW!
Buoy is 7 feet 19 seconds.
Tomorrow will build to 8′, Saturday 15′, Sunday 15′.
Please be careful!

i think i’m getting screwed recently. check out one of the tires in the truck? ouch! then i look around to the other tires and guess what?

another screw in another tire. 2 different screws in 2 different tires. what the heck did i run over? i remember a few years ago i was driving on the freeway and seen a box fly out of a truck in front of me. it opened up and i ran it over. i surfed backdoor that day and when i was going to go home, one of my tires was flat with a nail sticking out. then i look around and 3 tires had lots nails in them. i remember stopping at goodyear tire in mililani and spending $480 that day and waited 3 hours. i’m not looking forward to fixing these tires because i know it’s freakin expensive. i’ll just drive around like this for a while. haha.

check out this tube shot kenny took 2 days ago while we were surfing. if you look good, you can see Yuki-san, Inaida-san, and me through the barrel. cool!

and as i was running back in the water yesterday to grab a board, i kicked the crap out of a rock. the rock won, and my baby toe lost. throbbing sharp pain and nail fully torn off. i’ve never felt so much pain in a while. it’s broken for sure but guess what, it didn’t hurt when i surfed today. only when i got out of the water. haha.

Corn beef hash and eggs.
So good and so full!