This is a giant double barrel! OMG!
Good morning 7am.
North shore 1-3′ and junky.
South shore waist high and super fun.
Winds are 15-25mph from the North/East.
Weather is rain, clouds, but becoming sunny later.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, what a crazy day it was. i was driving around in the pouring rain, getting soaked, going into cold air condition stores, and i think my body shut down. it was the first time this year i used the heater of my car seat. kept my ass warm and made me sleepy. haha. snow on the big island, heavy rain on maui and oahu, a hiker drowns on kauai trying to cross a stream, and accidents everywhere. it was safer to be indoors today. tomorrow, same wind but the weather should be clearing up.

i was going through my photos and found this one of my friend and shaper Matchi. it was one super early morning out at 6′ Off The Wall when we connected. as soon as he took off, i knew i was going to get the shot. gosh, i miss shooting big waves from the impact zone. hope it gets good soon!

Today: Heavy rain, strong wind, brown water, and SNOW!!!! OMG, is this Hawaii?







It’s very dangerous outside. Please be careful!