the past 3 days have been absolutely perfect! waves around the island from the 2 hurricanes. south, north, east, and west shores all good size with perfect conditions. i haven’t seen diamond head this good for this long in a while. i counted over 100 surfers out yesterday and today. everybody having fun!

and when there is no parking at diamond head, you know the waves are good and glassy.

this morning i got up early because i had a mission. first catch good waves, second, catch good fish. the conditions couldn’t have been better!

i pull up to tiger point and like usual, nobody out. surfed it for 2 hours with just the sharks. dream session!

i had a very important dinner tonight at a very good chinese restaurant with friends so i wanted to get some fish. all i had on my mind was 2 kumu’s. once i got 2, i was going to come in. the waves were big and the water was so murky. you couldn’t see anything for the first 30′, then it got clear. i blind dive a few times and luckily call in some nice size munu’s. it was pretty scary because i was diving by myself in the shark infested waters. i know the big tigers were watching me. i spear 2 in the head and speed back to the harbor.

i put them in a bag and took it to the chinese restaurant. my instructions were: clean um, steam um, put some ginger and onion on um, pour hot peanut oil over um, and serve um to us at exactly 7pm. everything went perfect!

this on the menu would cost $100. but tonight, it was free. live off the land, and respect the land. everybody happy, me too.
tomorrow more epic waves and my life in the ocean continues. have 7 people to take surfing tomorrow and i’m looking forward to the good waves and great smiles. good night.

Perfect evening Diamond Head now!
3′ good waves and condition.

super stoked to surf with Sato-san and Nasuki-san yesterday morning. once again, perfect waves, perfect rides, perfect weather, and perfect smiles. such a cool couple!

Natsuki-san didn’t surf since the last time with me 2 years ago. i could tell she was nervous but once she caught her first wave, she felt super comfortable. we kept on going bigger and bigger and towards the end, she was riding pretty big waves from the outside.

and Sato-san was surfing really good today too. i watched him catch wave after wave.

so stoked to see Sato-san smiling and surfing.

to me, this is the dream photo. surfing with beautiful weather and beautiful diamond head in the background. awesome!

thank you Sato-san and Natsuki-san for a wonderful surf session again! enjoy the rest of your holiday here in hawaii!

then we went to Fresh Catch of the Day for lunch. locals only!

Natsuki-san should be a professional hawaii guide. for the past 3 years, she knows exactly where she wants to go for lunch. i’m always learning about new restaurants from her and i think that’s cool! thank you Natsuki-san for the great recommendation today. i love it there!