Takei-san getting ready for the morning session.

this is a really good bottom turn. knees are bent and his eyes looking where he wants to go.

Ito-san evening 4 hour marathon surf session.

good lighting, and pretty big wave!

this is a duck dive in hawaii. and japanese call it dolphin. feels so good!

6.5 hours surfing brings happiness, and sunburn. haha. i’m so burnt!!!

thank you Ito-san for the green tea snack! i can’t wait to try it!

hey Salina, you surfed so good the other day! score!
looked at my schedule just now and it’s looking like i’ll be surfing at least twice a day until september 18th. then i’m jumping on an airplane. in fact, i’ll be jumping on 4 airplanes and going very far and very deep. then once i get on the boat, i’ll be in heaven for 12 days. i can’t wait!

Mother Nature is so Beautiful!
Good morning 5:30am.
South swell continues.
Shoulder high sets at Bowls. Super clean!
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Rain, clouds, but will become sunny.
Going dawn patrol surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

had an awesome day with this kid today. Kai-san is from fukushima and is a 23 year old college student attending the Tokyo University of Science. his hometown and house was only 4km away from the fukushima nuclear plant. things have changed ever since as he will probably never ever get to return home. but he’s determined to graduate from college next year and return back to fukushima to work. it was his first surf session today and i could tell he was nervous.

but after a few tries, he got the basics down and surfed good all day long. we surfed for so long this morning and i couldn’t believe how much energy this kid had.

if you surf with me, it’s like boot camp so we tend to get hungry. Kai-san wanted to eat steak so i took him to eat the biggest steak lunch on the island.

i ate the daily special “oxtail stew.” so good!

then killed some time checking out the most famous tree in hawaii. pretty huge!

then we went for round 2. the waves were perfect all day long again. some head high sets and i got Kai-san into a few. first time surfer catching head high waves? haha. after that, we ate some sweet shave ice, and i bet he’s sleeping pretty good right now. such a good kid!

oh, we also went to stop by the university of hawaii too. as we were leaving, we saw this girl flying down the hill with her skateboard. she was wearing a dress, shoes, and a backpack. so cool!

then as we were passing by, she threw us a shaka! haha. what a cool chick! i bet you she surfs. gosh, i love hawaii!!!