i left my house at dark this morning with the truck full with 8 boards ranging from 6’0 to 11’0. and just got home now at 7pm. one of the longest, yet most fun day of my life. it just amazes me how surfing and the ocean can bring out the golden smiles in everyone. i just love it!

Seigo-san and i had a great morning session. was so stoked to see him catching so many good waves again! surfing super good and super happy! then he requested loco moco for lunch so i went to this cool place where i know the chef, walked in the kitchen, and asked “hey chef, can you make us 2 loco moco’s?” he said “of course!”

and like always, this is the best homemade loco moco on the whole island! omg, i want to eat another one right now!

then went surfing in the afternoon with a wonderful group of 8. then for a snorkel and a drinks on the ocean. listened to “shimanchu nu takara” on the way in singing our happy hearts out as the sun set. a very happy day filled with surf and friends. can’t wait to do the same thing tomorrow!
i have 2 cameras full with photos but don’t have any energy to work on it now. will try again tomorrow. stay tuned.

was playing around with the turtle yesterday. he just kept on swimming under me while i was waiting for a wave.

Kitahama-san caught wave after wave after wave. so many perfect waves all day long. he also went from going straight to turning right or left. a couple of levels up for sure!

he even did some cross steps! give him a few more sessions and he’ll be walking up to the nose. awesome!

longboard or short board, i love it all!

couldn’t believe how empty it was today. at one point, there were only the 2 of us in the whole lineup at rock piles. where is everyone??? thank you Kitahama-san for our awesome uncrowded surf sessions today!

another one bites the dust. a guy from hong kong tries to smuggle drugs into indonesia and gets caught. now he will die sitting in front of the firing squad. i don’t understand why anyone would smuggle drugs into a country that gives drug smugglers the death penalty.

a wrong choice in life can cause your own death. hey people, there is a death penalty for smuggling drugs to indonesia. and the courts over there don’t give a shit what country you’re from or how good our lawyer is. so don’t do it!

The unbeaten gets beaten.
Nothing is impossible.
Good morning 6am.
Small waves.
Waist-chest high everywhere.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Surf all day.
Have a wonderful day!