omg, i got up early this morning and it was super dark and gray. i haven’t seen the clouds this low in years. spooky.
but hey, it’s only water right? it’s days like this you have to think positive. one positive thing: there is lots of parking for a usually crowded sunday morning.
another positive thing: nobody as crazy as us so we had the spot practically to ourselves. i told Yamagata-san, “it’s usually crowded on a sunday morning. if it was sunny, there would be a hundred surfers out. so lucky us!” and he told me that if this was japan, it would be packed! so hey, we both scored!
rain or shine, the waves will always be there. and yes, they were!
so stoked to see Yamagata-san riding such long waves. it’s his first time to hawaii so next time, i can guarantee you the weather will be better than this. why? because it can’t get any worst.
it was the first time in years i couldn’t see diamond head all morning long. gosh, it’s crazy how i love this kind of weather too. felt like a kid playing in the rain!
all day rainy. great day to surf and pack. i’m looking forward to landing in super blue paradise tomorrow.
thank you Yamagata-san for a wonderful morning session. enjoy the rest of your trip in hawaii and see next year!
after i caught my ahi this summer, i told you all that i’m going to quit. well, i lied. actually, i quit fishing for ahi. but i still never got that big ahi spear fishing bare hands on one breath. another thing on my bucket list i’ve yet to cross off. i tried once in panama and came up empty. going to fly to a remote place and try again. two flights, a car ride, and a boat ride 30 miles to the middle of the sea. i’ll be on the redeye flight tonight and probably won’t get a good sleep because it’s “AHI FEVER” time! haha.
Monthly Archives: November 2015
Black Sunday Ahi Fever
Do you want $15,000?
check out this point break! a couple of my mexican amigos went on a surf trip here earlier this year and kept on telling me how long the wave was. now it’s my turn to see how it is with my own eyes! yeah, i’m going there and my flight leaves tonight!
and yes, perfect timing again! this brown water will be hanging around for a while. hopefully when i get back, it will be blue again.
so i call up my friend Shane and ask if i can borrow his gun again. he says yes, i pick it up, and try to put it back together again. haven’t used this thing since panama. something was broken so where do i take it? straight down my street to the best free diving shop on the island.
Kurt at Maui Sporting Goods is the man! he always gets me prepared for big trips like this. i like to cut corners and save money on things. but he says “you travel all that way and spend all that money, why would you want to cut corners?” he is absolutely right!!! so he fixed and tuned up the gun, made sure everything is perfect, and now i’m feeling pretty confident.
then came back home and packed up my dive stuff. like always, just going with the flow. dive, surf, eat, drink. what ever happens, happens.
when tomorrow comes, i’ll be right here! from brown water to blue water! my goal for this trip is to spear the biggest fish of my life!
last, i get these letters all the time! every body wants to lend me money. all i have to do is sign the paper and i can get $15,000. like i said before, my grandpa Osaki taught me never to borrow money. he said if you don’t have it, don’t spend it. those words sank into my brain when i was a little kid and i’ve never borrowed money in my whole life. never did, never will. so i want to tell the banks to stop wasting paper because you will never own me. thank you