omg, i got up early this morning and it was super dark and gray. i haven’t seen the clouds this low in years. spooky.
but hey, it’s only water right? it’s days like this you have to think positive. one positive thing: there is lots of parking for a usually crowded sunday morning.
another positive thing: nobody as crazy as us so we had the spot practically to ourselves. i told Yamagata-san, “it’s usually crowded on a sunday morning. if it was sunny, there would be a hundred surfers out. so lucky us!” and he told me that if this was japan, it would be packed! so hey, we both scored!
rain or shine, the waves will always be there. and yes, they were!
so stoked to see Yamagata-san riding such long waves. it’s his first time to hawaii so next time, i can guarantee you the weather will be better than this. why? because it can’t get any worst.
it was the first time in years i couldn’t see diamond head all morning long. gosh, it’s crazy how i love this kind of weather too. felt like a kid playing in the rain!
all day rainy. great day to surf and pack. i’m looking forward to landing in super blue paradise tomorrow.
thank you Yamagata-san for a wonderful morning session. enjoy the rest of your trip in hawaii and see next year!
after i caught my ahi this summer, i told you all that i’m going to quit. well, i lied. actually, i quit fishing for ahi. but i still never got that big ahi spear fishing bare hands on one breath. another thing on my bucket list i’ve yet to cross off. i tried once in panama and came up empty. going to fly to a remote place and try again. two flights, a car ride, and a boat ride 30 miles to the middle of the sea. i’ll be on the redeye flight tonight and probably won’t get a good sleep because it’s “AHI FEVER” time! haha.
