Do you want $15,000?

187

fg
check out this point break! a couple of my mexican amigos went on a surf trip here earlier this year and kept on telling me how long the wave was. now it’s my turn to see how it is with my own eyes! yeah, i’m going there and my flight leaves tonight!
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and yes, perfect timing again! this brown water will be hanging around for a while. hopefully when i get back, it will be blue again.
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so i call up my friend Shane and ask if i can borrow his gun again. he says yes, i pick it up, and try to put it back together again. haven’t used this thing since panama. something was broken so where do i take it? straight down my street to the best free diving shop on the island.
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Kurt at Maui Sporting Goods is the man! he always gets me prepared for big trips like this. i like to cut corners and save money on things. but he says “you travel all that way and spend all that money, why would you want to cut corners?” he is absolutely right!!! so he fixed and tuned up the gun, made sure everything is perfect, and now i’m feeling pretty confident.
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then came back home and packed up my dive stuff. like always, just going with the flow. dive, surf, eat, drink. what ever happens, happens.
gf
when tomorrow comes, i’ll be right here! from brown water to blue water! my goal for this trip is to spear the biggest fish of my life!
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last, i get these letters all the time! every body wants to lend me money. all i have to do is sign the paper and i can get $15,000. like i said before, my grandpa Osaki taught me never to borrow money. he said if you don’t have it, don’t spend it. those words sank into my brain when i was a little kid and i’ve never borrowed money in my whole life. never did, never will. so i want to tell the banks to stop wasting paper because you will never own me. thank you

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide