was checking out some old photos i took back when i was addicted to shooting in and out of the water. i pulled up to pipeline a few years ago and seen Naohisa Ogawa taking off on a big one! i took out my camera and got the 15 shot sequence. how big do you think this wave is? i say 15′ hawaiian scale, or 40′ face.
go pro shares are slipping and slipping and sliding. now valued under $20. some people lost billions of dollars this year. luckily it wasn’t me.
since i couldn’t go to okinawa this time, i thought i’d just flash back. one of the many surfing days in my career that i thought i was going to die. i’d say 12′ hawaiian scale or 30′ face. this wave was so dangerous because we were out in the middle of the sea. no lifeguards and no anything. if you get hurt, you pretty much die.
seen a guy with a rage surfboard and dove wetsuit surfing yesterday. come to find out, he was a member of Rise and Shine! small world! super stoked to meet happy surfers in hawaii, especially if they are friends with Matsuo-san.
Yumi-chan turned mermaid! amazing person and amazing courage!
got home from work yesterday and started to pack. hope i didn’t forget anything. but as long as i have my mask and gun, i’m ready to go.
100lbs and thousands of dollars of equipment? better produce.
got a good sleep in the airplane. luckily got a full row so slept like a baby.
6 hour layover in LA. one more flight and i’m in paradise again! been getting all kinds of alerts on my phone about flash flood warnings on oahu. super stoked i left at a good time. have a wonderful day!
