today was yet another beautiful day in the ocean. spent the morning organizing for this big upcoming weekend. so many things to prepare for but it’s so fun learning new things. it has always been a dream to be able to do every single thing in this world. one day, it will happen. so after some sweat and tears, i took to the ocean with some friends.

it was absolutely perfect for free diving! the water was soooo calm and clean!

checked out my first 2 spots and BAM! enough fish for the week. i couldn’t believe how comfortable i feel underwater waiting for the fish to come into my range. had to spear a couple of these behind a sharks back.

i crack up watching Yuko-chan spearing fish. this is the only person in the world that can dive underwater wearing a full wetsuit with no weight belt. yes, no weights! i couldn’t even dive down and stay underwater without any weights. and yes, she’s getting really good with the pole spear. another delicious hole in the cooler.

and i couldn’t believe she speared a freaking Roy too!!! omg, to pole spear a Roy takes patience, breath, and talent.

then we started to fish. no bites but enough fish for a weeks party. i watch Reid trying so hard to catch a fish and i just laugh inside because i know it will happen someday. he’s going to throw out his pole and a 100lbs. ulua is going to bite it!

i got a request for an uhu. so i took a drop, passed up on another big kumu, and waited for this big uhu to come and say hello.

got the perfect shot and this big boy is going to taste so good in the oven!

coming back in is always rewarding when you have fish in the cooler. another day in paradise. heard a rumor that the Eddie might GO next week. don’t believe anything until a day before. just check back and i’ll give you updates. goodnight.

Yeah! Got fresh fish today!
So healthy and very happy!

we pull up to haleiwa and the waves were pretty big for Shiba-san. 4′ or overhead sets and lots of water moving. current and very challenging. so we pose for the morning photo.

then i start to explain to Shiba-san how to get out, how to fight the current, and where to sit and wait. i could tell he was super nervous. i was just laughing because i was here before as well as every other big wave surfer in the world.

we get out and it was so beautiful! so much different from ala moana. much more water moving, much more nature, and much more strength. haleiwa is the most dangerous spot in the world when it gets big.

Shiba-san waiting for a set. he was super nervous until he caught his first wave. then the nerves settled down a bit.

imagine me yelling “PADDLE PADDLE PADDLE!!! GO GO GO!!!” it must be so stressful for a surfer. haha. anyway, Shiba-san went and caught his best wave of his life!

then he paddles back out with the biggest smile! super stoked! i’m proud of you Shiba-san. you’re a great surfer and firefighter. hope your firefighter friends believe you surfed 4′ haleiwa and also met Mark Occhilupo in the same day!

seen Matchi on so many good ones! it was the 3 of us sitting in the top of the lineup exchanging wave after wave. no locals out so we scored big time!

good surfing Matchi. have a safe flight back to japan and i’m looking forward to getting my new boards. mahalos!

and i was so stoked to be surfing such good waves with so little people out. it’s been a while since i had a super good short board session like this.