back to yesterday. just enjoying another perfect day in hawaii. keeping warm and protected by the sun with my custom Dove Wetsuit. the best in the world. thanks boys for the protection!

i took Ai-san surfing last year for the first time. now she can surf on her own! omg, she caught so many waves by herself today and rode it all the way in perfectly.

i was so stoked to see her surfing so good and every time she came back out, she had the biggest smile on her face. amazing.

it was Kuni-san’s first time surfing. it took a couple of waves for her to get her confidence level up but once she did, she surfed perfectly! so stoked to see her smiling all morning long.

newborn paddle in surfer? i think so!

thank you ladies for the wonderful surf session! so happy to see your long rides and bright smiles!

it’s so crazy how timing is everything. bowls is probably the most crowded spot on the south shore. yesterday was sunday and if you know and study the island weather like how i’ve been doing for the past 30 years, you can score memorable sessions like this. we paddled out and caught any and every wave we wanted. the afternoon score!

i’m trying to get this girls toes to the nose. why? because she told me that’s her dream. she’s almost there! next week her cousin Kelia Moniz is coming back to hawaii so i’m sure after a few tips from the world champion, she will definitely get there soon.

riding behind and enjoying this precious moment. the kind of moment i live for.

She’s a Beauty!
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore 4-6′ and good. Pipeline/Backdoor looks good.
South shore chest high and good. Ala Moana best.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Clouds, sun, showers, and rainbows!
Surfing 2 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!

was stoked to come home last night and spend time with my nephews. i was so tired that i fell asleep before both of them. haha.

woke up this morning to another beautiful day! picked up Kuni-san and Ai-san and headed to the calm sea. some great rides for these SUP ladies of kamakura!

then we were so hungry after surfing so long! so went to eat some noodles at my favorite black bean seafood noodle restaurant.

this is so amazing! very tasty and very healthy. a dish from north china to hawaii.

so happy to get chocolate for valentines day! thank you so much Ai-san!

i dropped off the ladies and went home around 1pm. i felt the wind change back to offshore so i grabbed the princess and told her “you go surf and practice while i go and look for a gopro this girl lost earlier in the morning.” i grab my mask and head out.

i get to the outside and nobody was out except one SUP. where is everybody? the wind just switched from onshore to offshore right before we paddled out so it was empty. forget looking for the $400 gopro! i’d rather surf! we surfed and surfed perfect waves and one hour later, it got crowded again. i can’t believe how lucky we were! i forgot about the gopro so maybe i’ll try again tomorrow because i know for a fact it’s still out there.

want to say hello to Yumi-chan and her cute nieces! omg, so cute!!! hope you are keeping warm in japan and hope to teach you young ladies surfing someday.

and to my osaka loop train driver friends. stoked to see you guys enjoying the cold japan sea surf.

gosh, i miss surfing in japan. i use to paddle out on cold days like this and think “you guys inspire me. it’s freaking freezing cold and you guys are surfing? i respect you surfers!”

and UFC former champion Rounda Rousey got the cover shot on Sports Illustrated magazine. can you believe someone painted this bikini on her body? so yes, this is as naked as you will ever see this beautiful fighter. and remember that she can beat up most men in this world so respect women.