when ever i see something new, one part of me wants it, and another part of me doesn’t. check out this power cat called the Leopard 51. isn’t she beautiful?
in hawaii, the median price for a house is $700,000. for this beautiful floating palace, it’s $600,000. if i had to choose between the two, you know i’d pick this for sure.
10 years ago, i wrote on my blog about my dream. i wrote about taking my friends around the world on a boat. if that happens, this would be it. the perfect surf dream boat! so in order for me to actually buy it, i would have to either win a lottery, or make at least $1M per year to upkeep her. dream big right? i always do.
2016 has to be the most beautiful year in the history of recording beautiful years. so many perfect blue days i can’t even count.
and coming home to the sweetest smell of gardenia in my garden is wonderful.
Brock Little is not only a friend, he is like a hero to me. it was back in 1993 when i was confused about my surfing career. i didn’t like surfing small wave contests in japan, i wanted something different. at that time, Brock was the only professional surfer traveling the world going on photo shoots. every other surfer had to surf contests no matter what. he was living the dream and i wanted it too. the following year, i had meetings with my sponsors and ended up doing the exact same thing Brock was. literally, i copied his lifestyle. and just like him, i loved it. a true inspiration to my life.
Brock wasn’t just a traveling surfer living his dreams, he was a big wave charger that charged more than anyone else in the world. he’s the one that taught Kelly Slater, Shane Dorian, and many others how to surf big waves.
i get home last night after a wonderful day. i turn on the news and see an interview on Brock. i was in shock. i couldn’t believe what i saw. Brock has stage 4 cancer. and he only found out a month ago. the whole world knew except me because i don’t have instagram or Facebook. i couldn’t sleep. i couldn’t think. i still can’t. i’m praying for a full recovery for a friend, and an inspiration. you’ll get through this Brock!
Monthly Archives: February 2016
Pray for Inspiration
February 10, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report
Really? I don’t think so. Swell too small. Maybe Eddie won’t GO.
Good morning 4:30am.
North shore growing. 10-15′ this afternoon. Good conditions.
South shore waist high with chest high sets at Diamond Head. Good conditions.
Off shore winds everywhere becoming onshore in the afternoon.
Super sunny. Cool morning and very warm day.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!
Quiksilver Marketing Genius!
had an awesome day with Hosokawa-san! so good to see him back in hawaii enjoying the warm weather and perfect waves!
he caught so many good waves this morning. we surfed pretty long until we got super hungry.
Hosokawa-san is trying not to get a suntan. hard to do with no clouds. haha. oh well, nice try but he turned 3 shades of dark brown before the day was over. haha.
last time i took Hosokawa-san to eat pho for his first time, he got hooked! he went back to japan and ate pho 3x a week. then that only pho shop near his house closed down so it’s been a while. welcome back to hawaii’s best pho!
we had to rest our stomach before going surfing again so we took a drive to diamond head. omg, it was so beautiful!!! just picture perfect again.
and luckily we saw 2 whales enjoying the hawaiian waters. lucky!
we went back out for round 2 and there was absolutely nobody out. score! we surfed the whole rock piles to ourself. where the heck is everybody? there is a little perfect south swell guys!
we rode every wave we possible could. the cleanest water and most perfect weather and waves you can imagine. today was postcard perfect day!
thank you Hosokawa-san for the wonderful day of fun! glad to see you riding so many good waves today. keep on surfing and see you and your family next year! aloha!
ok, yesterday they called the Eddie “ON” for tomorrow. for me, i think that was a great call even though i thought the swell will peak tomorrow night. it is 6pm now on tuesday evening and the buoys still didn’t pick up any of the swell. they need 8 hours to run the event. if the buoys don’t pop up by the next few hours, it might be a slow morning. the swell is definitely coming tomorrow night, but will it be big enough in the morning? we shall have to wait and see. i majored in marketing at university of hawaii. so if i were the marketing director of quicksilver, i would have made the same call. i’d tell everybody the contest is on, i’d create the hugest surfing hype like we have now. the whole world will be watching waimea bay tomorrow regardless if the waves come or not. if it comes, the contest will be on. if it doesn’t come, the contest will be cancelled. either way, quicksilver wins! great marketing and this isn’t the first time quicksilver did this. haha.
The Eddie is Go? i really hope so because it’s been 6 long years. wake up tomorrow morning and check back. i’ll give the full report. good night.
