when ever i see something new, one part of me wants it, and another part of me doesn’t. check out this power cat called the Leopard 51. isn’t she beautiful?
in hawaii, the median price for a house is $700,000. for this beautiful floating palace, it’s $600,000. if i had to choose between the two, you know i’d pick this for sure.
10 years ago, i wrote on my blog about my dream. i wrote about taking my friends around the world on a boat. if that happens, this would be it. the perfect surf dream boat! so in order for me to actually buy it, i would have to either win a lottery, or make at least $1M per year to upkeep her. dream big right? i always do.
2016 has to be the most beautiful year in the history of recording beautiful years. so many perfect blue days i can’t even count.
and coming home to the sweetest smell of gardenia in my garden is wonderful.
Brock Little is not only a friend, he is like a hero to me. it was back in 1993 when i was confused about my surfing career. i didn’t like surfing small wave contests in japan, i wanted something different. at that time, Brock was the only professional surfer traveling the world going on photo shoots. every other surfer had to surf contests no matter what. he was living the dream and i wanted it too. the following year, i had meetings with my sponsors and ended up doing the exact same thing Brock was. literally, i copied his lifestyle. and just like him, i loved it. a true inspiration to my life.
Brock wasn’t just a traveling surfer living his dreams, he was a big wave charger that charged more than anyone else in the world. he’s the one that taught Kelly Slater, Shane Dorian, and many others how to surf big waves.
i get home last night after a wonderful day. i turn on the news and see an interview on Brock. i was in shock. i couldn’t believe what i saw. Brock has stage 4 cancer. and he only found out a month ago. the whole world knew except me because i don’t have instagram or Facebook. i couldn’t sleep. i couldn’t think. i still can’t. i’m praying for a full recovery for a friend, and an inspiration. you’ll get through this Brock!
