Eddie Didn't Go!

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i had a feeling this was going to happen. that’s why i was kind of surprised they called the event on a few days ago. i’m not an expert forecaster, but even i knew the swell was going to arrive tonight. i even told Tokura-san on sunday who left on monday, “i don’t think they can run it because the swell is going to peak at night.” so he went back to japan. then monday morning, they said “Eddie ON!” omg! i thought to myself “Tokura-san is going to freak out!!!” i was really nervous, but deep inside, thought that they weren’t going to run it anyway. for marketing purposes, good call. for the thousands of people that went to the bay this morning, i feel sorry for them. before i went to sleep last night, i checked the buoys and no swell yet. then i got up at 4am to check again and that’s when i knew, “No Eddie Today.”
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but at first light, tens of thousands of people still thought it was still on. traffic, campers, police, event staff, and so many other people down there anticipating a start. they added more bus service, the government canceled the rubbish collection today, and they made so many other arrangements for this contest. it wasn’t until 7:20am until they called the contest off. bummer for all these people.
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and bummer for all the people that called in sick from work, cancelled appointments, and made sacrifices to go watch the contest. i was driving to ala moana early this morning and seen thousands of cars making a line to the highway bound for the north shore. i wanted to wave a sign “contest is cancelled today!” drive 5 hours and find out the hard way? that must have sucked.
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i took off to the sea. spent a peaceful morning out there, then went to yoga, then started to make arrangements to dry dock Mayuki.
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another perfect day here in hawaii. super warm and super blue!
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wanted to thank Hosokawa-san and his wife for the wonderful treats from Yamagata Prefecture. i love mochi!
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i gave a girl some shells yesterday to keep her busy. one hour later, she came to me and said “look what i made!” omg, so cool! i love it! so i asked her to make more of these cool light switch covers for my house. maybe she can make you one too?

last, when you hold wild animals captive against their will, expect nature to take place. here is a captive elephant in india roaming in the concrete jungle. remember when this happened in hawaii? yeah, hundreds of bullets killing the poor elephant right on the streets of honolulu. i will never forget that.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide