surfing waikiki 2 days ago was so fun. different spot, different waves, and different people. feels like a different world. here is Atilla on one from the outside.

after you do a cutback and fade, queen’s will reform and you will get a good wall in the inside. and with the strong offshore winds this day, lots of lucky barrels!

waikiki is for everyone! just enjoy the ride!

Maki-san is hardcore. i waited all day for the winds to turn offshore and right when it did, i flew down there. i paddled out thinking i was one of the first to figure it out, then i seen Maki-san already out here. haha. she’s a true surfer.

getting back to yesterday. Kei-san got out of my truck and once she seen the waves, she was so nervous. it was huge!!! but she wanted the challenge so out we went. look at this big mountain she’s about to climb. so beautiful!

once you get to the outside, you can finally relax. i tell everyone to take their time and get their breath back. why? because now you will get the ride of your life!

and omg, check this out!!! Kei-san charging a huge set! i was on the side of her yelling go, and she went! what an amazing photo! this wave was so perfect, it looked like indonesia. Kei-san Would Go!

Kei-san told me she almost drowned twice. i was right next to her both times trying to keep her calm. she got held down pretty long but i knew she would come up. once she did, another big wave on the head. this is how i learned how to surf big waves. i was once a student, now i’m a teacher. and the only way you can learn is by experience. this turned out to be a great experience because towards the end of the session, she wasn’t scared at all. in fact, she was smiling the whole time. haha.

a very tough girl. i’m sure she will never forget this session. i know that because i never forget any of my near drowning experiences. you experience it, you learn from it, and you move on. that’s how you become a big wave surfer. great job Kei-san!

keep on surfing!

The Academy: Nice wave pool!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-4′ and junky.
South shore chest high and perfect.
Strong North winds at 30mph.
Sunny and very cool day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

seemed like Indonesia was the best spot to view the total eclipse.

so amazing! i saw one before in hawaii and actually got scared. it was super sunny and a beautiful day and all of a sudden, it got really dark and scary. i don’t like dark and scary.

omg, the waves were going off again today. solid 4-5′ and barreling! took out Kei-san in the morning and gave her the challenge of her life.

once you teach someone how to throw the board and swim under big waves, they can survive anything. Kei-san is now a pro at that. got some amazing photos from our session coming soon.

with these gusty 50mph off shore winds, the waves stand tall and barrel in places that normally don’t barrel. i swear i seen some waves at ala moana that looked like g-land today.

thank you Kei-san for a wonderful challenging day. awesome surfing and i’m so happy you survived!

went for an afternoon private solo session. on the way, i seen tourists getting blown down the street. it was like typhoon winds. haha.

new board, new board case, and new life. i couldn’t wait to get out there! i drove full speed out of the harbor. took me 1 minute from bowls to big rights. good thing there isn’t any speed limit in the ocean.

threw the anchor and only had 4 guys out. the waves started to pump!!! perfect timing as i watched so many empty barrels go unridden.

even concessions was going off. seen my friend Carter out there ripping! it was empty and the waves were as good as it gets.

when ever i go to big rights, all i look for is the barrel. so as i take off on my first wave, i place myself in the perfect spot.

then i get barreled and i’m a very happy man! i’ve been doing this out there for over 30 years and it feels better and better as i get older and older.

then do a turn. this was the first wave i rode with my brand new board. after i kicked out, i knew i had a magic wave and a magic board! so stoked!
tomorrow more south shore perfect waves. i’ll be in the ocean all day long. better go to sleep early. goodnight.