surfing waikiki 2 days ago was so fun. different spot, different waves, and different people. feels like a different world. here is Atilla on one from the outside.
after you do a cutback and fade, queen’s will reform and you will get a good wall in the inside. and with the strong offshore winds this day, lots of lucky barrels!
waikiki is for everyone! just enjoy the ride!
Maki-san is hardcore. i waited all day for the winds to turn offshore and right when it did, i flew down there. i paddled out thinking i was one of the first to figure it out, then i seen Maki-san already out here. haha. she’s a true surfer.
getting back to yesterday. Kei-san got out of my truck and once she seen the waves, she was so nervous. it was huge!!! but she wanted the challenge so out we went. look at this big mountain she’s about to climb. so beautiful!
once you get to the outside, you can finally relax. i tell everyone to take their time and get their breath back. why? because now you will get the ride of your life!
and omg, check this out!!! Kei-san charging a huge set! i was on the side of her yelling go, and she went! what an amazing photo! this wave was so perfect, it looked like indonesia. Kei-san Would Go!
Kei-san told me she almost drowned twice. i was right next to her both times trying to keep her calm. she got held down pretty long but i knew she would come up. once she did, another big wave on the head. this is how i learned how to surf big waves. i was once a student, now i’m a teacher. and the only way you can learn is by experience. this turned out to be a great experience because towards the end of the session, she wasn’t scared at all. in fact, she was smiling the whole time. haha.
a very tough girl. i’m sure she will never forget this session. i know that because i never forget any of my near drowning experiences. you experience it, you learn from it, and you move on. that’s how you become a big wave surfer. great job Kei-san!
keep on surfing!
