Surf and Drive: Real Hawaii!

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super epic morning conditions! surfed with Tomami-san and had a great time! super stoked watching her ride so many waves.
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then we got super hungry so went for a loco moco with brown rice. the diamond head grill special.
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then since Tomami-san hasn’t seen the real hawaii, i took her to my favorite spots. nice photos, good talk, and lots of laughs.
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the beautiful diamond head. very nice!
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the beautiful sandy beach. untouched hawaii landscape. and to think they want to build hotels on that coast? crazy!!!
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the shore break was looking very good. side off shore and only a few guys out.
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the right side of the shore break is called “gas chambers.” that was the best spot today.
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usually it’s crowded but only a few guys out getting barreled.
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the beautiful makapuu. always breathtaking.
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and yes, my favorite of my favorite, tantalus! the best city view in the world.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide