had a great surf session this afternoon. super clean with the new south swell arriving. should be good all week! yeah!

such a sad story in kalihi. this little mom and pop shop robbed 3 times in the past 5 days.

a couple guys walk in with masks, then try to get the cash out of the register.

one of the robbers grabs the 76 year old store owner in a chokehold and chokes her until she passes out. this is very sad to see something like this. and so disturbing to see this happening right in honolulu.

i hope they catch all these guys. then send them to the philippines and let the new president there decide what to do with them. and i’m sure it won’t be good.

my tv i bought 8 years ago finally broke. it was a 40″ display and cost me $1,100 back then. so i threw it away today and bought a new one.

i went to the store this morning and was surprised to find a 50″ on sale for only $370! score! so i came home and hooked it up. then got too frustrated trying to set it up. way too complicated!!! and they call this a smart tv? are you joking?

was stressing out a little after not getting the tv to work, so i went to do some yoga. this is my teacher that’s been teaching me the right way to do these amazing poses. then went to surf right after and had an awesome session. tv still doesn’t work, but who cares? i give up. haha.

Great play!
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and coming up. South swell rising!
Diamond Head head high and windy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Cloudy morning, maybe sunny afternoon.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

OMG, found another blog i forget to hit the “publish button.” oh well, here it is!
we surfed ala moana bowls in the morning, then sandy beach in the afternoon. two totally different spots, different waves, different wind, different sand, different view, different water, different power, and different locals.

i grew up surfing here in high school so it was good to see all my old time friends in the lineup. a much different lineup then ala moana. only locals here. no tourists and no beginners at all.

Mana-san sharing the lineup with my local friend. super cool hawaiians at sandy beach. and right out in front had 2 huge whales jumping out of the water the whole time we were out. waiting for sets watching the whales? freaking awesome!

and the waves much thicker than ala moana. swells coming in from the deep water hitting the shallow reef with lots of power. you can ride 2x faster here.

i like going right at full point. the wave angles in and you can smash the lip super hard.

and the view is freaking amazing!

gosh, i miss short boarding. just love the feeling so much.

then there is the notorious sandy beach shore break. since Mana-san is a bodyboader, i told her, “you must experience the most strongest pound for pound wave in the world.” she was nervous watching all the water dumping on the sand.

it’s so peaceful out there. made me remember my middle school days of my friends and i doing the same thing.

and the water is just pure clean. no chemicals, no brown water runoff, and so smell. some of the cleanest water on the island.

Mana-san caught this really good wave. nice take off and getting ready for the barrel.

a definitely good experience for a bodyboader from japan. sandy beach is the mecca of bodyboarding.

and yes, you will take home a lot of sand with you. in your hair, in your ears, and in your swimsuit. haha.

great job Mana-san on your first sandy beach experience. you couldn’t have chosen a better day. maybe see you in the water in okinawa!

gosh, i just love it here. i use to take this view for granted when i was young. now, i appreciate the water, sand, clouds, people, and everything about sandy beach.