another beautiful day in paradise. super good surf and waves for every level of surfing. headed out with Mai-san this morning. stopped by bowls to check out the action. looked pretty fun, but way to crowded for us.

gosh, it was so beautiful! went looking for a perfect shoulder high wave for us and found one with nobody out. so lucky to surf with nobody else on a sunday.

this is Mai-san’s first wave ever in hawaii! perfect take off!

then she put the board on the rail and rode the perfect point right hander. gosh, her first wave was so perfect!

good ride so she was stoked! i can’t believe Mai-san only surfed for 3 years. she must have some good teachers back in Akita, Japan.

a smile like this says it all. so happy!

then we went looking for turtles because she’s never seen one before. and guess what? they were home!

it must be a trip to see a turtle for the first time yeah? i remember the first time i seen a turtle. my step father brought it home alive in a bag, cut the head off, cleaned the meat, and cooked it for us for dinner. i was only 7 years old so imagine how traumatized i was. maybe that’s why i love to see turtles swimming so freely now?

ate a poke bowl for lunch. Mai-san asked me if ahi is called “sea chicken” in english. haha. after the laughs, we headed to the east side to check out the surf and nature. it was so beautiful today. thank you Mai-san for the wonderful day!

watching bowls from the channel is the best. you can see deep into the barrel and see the expressions on the surfers face. everybody is so stoked the first real swell was a really good one.

we went to check out diamond head on the way back and the waves were so beautiful!

OMG! Best wave on the island right now!!!

i was telling Yoshida-san yesterday “this is what surfers dream of. waves like this with only a few people out taking turns getting barreled. perfect light off shore winds and calm seas. this is exactly like a perfect day in indonesia!” you couldn’t have asked for more.

so good to see my longtime friend Cedric Nishimura out there. we were talking about our trip to Kauai back in the 1980’s when we scored perfect waves. super good guy with super good stories.

i went under a wave and seen my friend Travis’s fins right under my face.

i had my gopro in my mouth so here is the view from the barrel. i wish i could explain to you better how good it feels in a barrel. and how better i feels when you make it out. something you just have to experience on your own. and when you do, you will understand that the feeling is unexplainable.

then paddling out watching perfect empty barrels go unridden. it makes you appreciate nature much more.

i’ve been trying to hold the plank pose for long periods of time. if i can get to hold this pose for 30 minutes, i will achieve my goal. but for now, it’s only 30 seconds. haha. try it and feel the pain.

omg, watched this chick named Angela Lee fight the other night. she’s the girl on the left. 19 years old and from Mililani, Oahu. amazing talent this young girl has. and now she’s chasing her dreams and making it to the top. so stoked to see local talent making it big worldwide.

was at diamond head the other day checking the waves. then was looking at the landscape on the mountain. very clean, no rubbish, nice shower, stairs, plants, and flowers. no, the state of hawaii workers didn’t do this, the local surfers did. and the local surfers upkeep this place all the time. so cool to see things like this happening in hawaii.