i was teaching Asayama-san how to ride swells. yes, how to ride waves that don’t even break. all you have to do is have the right board and be a strong paddler. once Asayama-san got it down, he rode swell after swell for 3 straight hours. awesome job!

getting stronger and stronger each day. mind, body, and soul.

i was riding swells too. and also practicing on my nose riding.

got the hang 5 down pretty easy. so fun to be on the nose riding on the beautiful clear water.

somebody asked me “why are there so many sharks recently?” my answer was “there were always many sharks. it’s just that everybody has a camera now so it’s easy to capture the moment. before, if you saw a shark, nobody would believe you.” haha.

and nobody would believe you too if you told them you surfed with a duck. haha.

Wow, nice gun!
Good morning 6am.
South swell here! And still coming UP!
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and very warm. Please drink lots of water.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

had another amazing day with Asayama-san. surfed for 3 hours and had a super good time. then us hungry surfers went to eat the best mexican on the island.

no matter what, i order the enchiladas. i just love it!

the first time for Asayama-san and he loved it too. i’m sure we will go back there again.

passed by to check out the ducks. always there and always waiting for food.

peking duck sounds really good. i don’t think anyone would notice one missing right?

went out to the east side. an absolutely perfect day!

watching the wipeouts at sandy beach shore break. always fun watching that.

then asked Asayama-san if he wanted to jump off the 80 ledge. no way! haha.

after eating a heavy lunch, i ate some light udon for dinner. thank you Shimada-san for the delicious japanese noodles!