i was teaching Asayama-san how to ride swells. yes, how to ride waves that don’t even break. all you have to do is have the right board and be a strong paddler. once Asayama-san got it down, he rode swell after swell for 3 straight hours. awesome job!
getting stronger and stronger each day. mind, body, and soul.
i was riding swells too. and also practicing on my nose riding.
got the hang 5 down pretty easy. so fun to be on the nose riding on the beautiful clear water.
somebody asked me “why are there so many sharks recently?” my answer was “there were always many sharks. it’s just that everybody has a camera now so it’s easy to capture the moment. before, if you saw a shark, nobody would believe you.” haha.
and nobody would believe you too if you told them you surfed with a duck. haha.
