Hawaii on FIRE!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph becoming 25mph later.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

so glad to have met another hardcore surfer! surfing dawn patrol before your international flight is hardcore. and that’s what Oshima-san did this morning. i’m sure he’s sleeping really good on the airplane right now.

the waves were beautiful once again. perfect surfing and perfect rides.

and perfect style.

and perfect smile.

went under my house to look for something and found something else! my old magic board that Kaysen shaped for me. i brought it back from japan 8 years ago and forgot to take it out of my surfboard bag. haha.

so i threw on 5 fins and it worked like magic again. my lost treasure is found!

and guess what? it works better than ever.

thank you Oshima-san for the wonderful 7 perfect days of surfing! multiple levels up! see you again soon!

then went back surfing this evening for 3 hours with another cool surfer dude. we scored! omg, the waves were perfect!

99% of people see this sign and turn around. this sign has been here since the heavy rain 3 days ago. hawaii has such high standards for water quality. but traveling around the world makes me realize that even the dirtiest days in hawaii are cleaner than the ocean in other countries. places like shonan in japan, river mouths in the philippines and indoneisa are 100x dirtier. i’ve seen dead animals, chemicals, and other crazy things. i hope they keep this sign here forever because it sure is keeping the crowds away.

the most emptiest lineups ever! only for the hardcore.

Hikaru-san was a little concerned about the water quality too. but once she got out and seen how clean it was, it was time to surf with a smile!

amazing surfer. she caught some really good and long waves yesterday. perfect color coordination.

and some pretty big ones too. thank you Hikaru-san for the amazing afternoon surf session. we scored!

check out this crazy chick named Keala Kennelly. omg!

so crazy to see this lady get attacked by a tiger in china. the first thing that comes to my mind is the time i was in a car at a safari park in south africa. i seen 4 elephants in the distance so i get out of the car and get closer to take a photo. that was the the stupidest thing i’ve ever done in my life. i forgot that there were lions and tigers in the same safari park. i remember getting scolded by our driver. and yes, i deserved it. lucky to be alive talking about it.