Typhoon swell in Japan. I’m so jealous… Photo: Toda-san.

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

after our secret morning session, we decided to go to the North Shore to eat hulihuli chicken and hang out on this beautiful Father’s Day!

pulled up to Puena Point and Uncle Brian had a VIP parking open for me.

Uncle Brian also let us use his tent, chairs, and gave us the full Aloha spirit service.

then we went walking around to check the waves and people watch.

the waves were chest high and there were about 100 surfers out. it was crazy! so Asayama-san and i sat on the white sand and watched all the crashes!

my friend Donald’s been texting me all day yesterday and today. he’s hooked on foiling so i know exactly how he feels. he was in Japan last night, and in Hawaii this morning.

Donald really likes Asayama-san and is really nice to him. we still can’t believe he flew 300 passengers from Japan to Hawaii, no sleep, then straight to foiling. so funny! but i would trust Donald flying my airplane anytime because this guy is sharp.

but i’m happy Donald doesn’t fly an airplane like he foils because he’s nuts! he was weaving in and out of of everybody. haha.

want to thank Uncle Brian Suratt for your hospitality today. and want to thank you for the 30 years of friendship. Uncle Brian is the enforcer on the North Shore and if you make trouble out there, you better run…

watching the volcano burning everything in its path is heartbreaking, but at the same time, also freaking beautiful.

before and after Madame Pele’s flow.

one local businessman and some volunteers stepped up and built this temporary housing for the people that lost their houses. amazing display of Aloha…

Asayama-san is becoming like me. he just wants to surf with nobody around and enjoy the ocean. no crowds, no hassling, no stress, and the most freedom you can imagine. i checked Ala Moana earlier and the waves weren’t that good, so we drove 40 minutes to a spot nobody knows about. and yes, it was perfect!

you can paddle out and ride anything you want. the most freedom kind of surfing you can imagine.

thanks to this South swell, the waves were super nice size and super good conditions.

Carter’s been joining us and enjoying the freedom too!

i have a gopro so i can’t really shoot myself. i want to see how i’m foiling because i want to get better. but these selfies don’t do the job. so Carter took my camera after this and shot footage for the first time.

then all i had to do was ride high. it’s hard to believe that 6 months ago i was in the hospital, and now i’m foiling like Kai Lenny. haha. just joking…

and Asayama-san is surfing like Kelly Slater! and i’m not joking about that! haha.

passed by Diamond Head in the evening and saw some solid 6′ sets! double overhead and wild!!!

so i got my toy out and rode some of the most amazing waves!!! i’m so naturally high right now i don’t know what to do with myself!!!