Born Again!

Afternoon@Waikiki

Yesterday@Secret

Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful King Kamehameha Day!

went surfing this morning and bumped into my friend Donald. super good surfer that just got into foiling so it was fun watching him charge. it was cool to have him surfing with us because he kept on giving Asayama-san good local advice.

Asayama-san took Donald’s advice and caught some good waves.

surfing a different spot again today just to get more experience. more experience comes more happy moments.

Carter came out too and foiled high!

Asayama-san pretty much can surf a new spot, know where to paddle out, catch a wave on his own, and ride it to the end. not too many people can do that.

been surf friends with Donald for a long time but only see each other when Big Rights is big and barreling. now he’s into foiling so i’ll be seeing a lot more of him. he’s a pilot so right after this session, he went to the airport and flew over 300 people to Osaka. haha.

we were so hungry from all the paddling so it was a day for the loco moco!

this is fuel for surfers. thank you Asayama-san for another amazing day of boot camp!