after the past 3 days of big wave surfing, today was a piece of cake. so easy and so relaxed at i watched Asayama-san ride the best waves of his life.

we went out to the main peak at Bowls and caught the sets. Asayama-san surfed amazingly!

look at this beautiful wave!

i still can’t believe this man is 69 years old. it blows my mind…

then while we were waiting one the outside, a super nice set lined up, then Asayama-san rode the longest and best left of his life! i couldn’t believe how perfectly he rode it till the end.

he paddled back out and said “that was the best wave of my life.” the biggest smile i’ve ever seen out of him before.

then we caught one more and called it a day. a beautiful day.

if the people i surf with are stoked, so am i. i had a wonderful session too!

Maki-san was out this morning so we all went to lunch together. filled our stomachs up with protein. then we started talking about the famous Jeannie Chesser.

then went to the North Shore to visit the legend doing what she does best, Airbrush! good surfing Asayama-san, and amazing airbrush Jeannie! see you guys in the water tomorrow for more waves of our lifetime!

when i picked up Imai-san, he told me he used to surf a very long time ago. and now he want’s to start back up. he was thinking it might be too late? i told him “it’s never too late! i just took a 69 year old man by the name of Asayama-san surfing earlier! and he’s surfing better than guys half his age!” this was Imai-san’s first wave in Hawaii! super stoked to see him get up and ride it so well!

it turned into a 2 hour Boot Camp and i’m sure this will reboot his life up again. to be able to surf in your 60’s is a gift!

i hope to be surfing into my 60’s and 70’s too. thanks for all the inspiration you guys!!!

see you again Imai-san. just remember that surfing is for all ages. and i totally believe that the older you get, the more you will enjoy it!

did you hear that the World Surf League can only be seen on Facebook from July 2nd? so people without Facebook can’t see it anymore. that means me? bad decision WSL. oh well, thank you because i’d rather spend my time doing something else.

and now that John John hurt his knee, he won’t be surfing anytime soon. poor guy.

heard about the Japanese tourist couple that got attacked in the public bathroom in Kakaako? they should put the guy who did it in jail forever.

not let’s talk volcanos. Madame Pele is still demolishing her pathway to the sea. all she’s doing is making more land, and taking out everything along the way. this is not a catastrophe, this is nature doing what nature does.

and the volcano in Guatemala that killed 99 people and hundreds still missing. i look at this photo in disbelief because i hiked to the top of this exact active volcano 3 years ago. it was erupting then, and ever since then on a regular basis. every 20 minutes to be exact. i know for a fact that there were people like me on the top of this volcano when it erupted. i’m sure they won’t be around to tell their story. a scary thought…

even people miles and miles away died. i just looked back at the photos i took when i was up there and thought that it could have been me. a very scary thought…

Go Gerry!

Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!